Today I want to bring you my itinerary for spending 3 days in the Lake District without a car. This stunning part of Cumbria is one of my favorite places to get outdoors in the north of England, and it’s surprisingly easy to get around without driving. I’m here now and I can’t wait to share my experience with you. I’ve included a map, too.
3 Days in the Lake District Without a Car
The Lake District is the stuff of dreams. This mountainous national park in the northwest of England is known for everything from stunning scenery to chocolate-box villages, Scafell Pike, and adorable sheep (with an emphasis on adorable…just wait till you see them).
With plenty of lakes (it’s in the name, after all), Beatrix Potter connections, historic homes like that of John Ruskin, and cute little gingerbread shops, it’s impossible not to love this part of the United Kingdom.
Which is why I keep coming back. This is my fifth trip to the Lake District, and my second without a car (you can read about my first here). I hope my itinerary inspires you to plan a trip of your own.
If you’d rather take a guided tour, I recommend going with Rabbie’s. I’ve taken many tours with them in the past, and they’ve all been excellent. You can book their 3-day Lake District tour here.
Where to Stay
I’ve been invited to the Lake District to stay at a hotel called Rothay Manor. This Grade II-listed Regency property has been lovingly refurbished by husband-and-wife owners Jamie and Jenna. As soon as my friend and I see the place, we’re wowed (and my friend is an interior design expert).
The interiors of the bedrooms feature exposed beams, cast-iron bathtubs, and bold William Morris wallpapers. Our room is in a modern building next to the historic one, and we love everything from the stylish design to the thoughtful amenities.
The hotel features a beautiful restaurant, sunny terrace, pretty gardens, and a boot room with wellies to borrow. It’s dog-friendly, too, which means we’re on cute overload the whole time. If that sounds like your cup of tea, you can book a room here.
Day 1
But I’m getting ahead of myself. First we have to get to the Lake District. We meet at London’s Euston station on a sunny morning and board our train to Cumbria.
We have a short stopover in Preston along the way, where we buy snacks at a shop called Stop Gap in the station.
Soon we’re on a second train that takes us to Oxenholme Lake District station near Kendal. From there it’s a short ride to Windermere, which is in the heart of the national park. In total, the journey takes us just under three-and-a-half hours.
Windermere
There are buses from Windermere station to other parts of the Lake District, but it’s only a minute’s walk into town. We set off on foot, making our way to the high street as we soak up the Cumbrian sunshine.
A few minutes later we stumble upon a place called Utopia for lunch. We snag an outdoor table, then order from the counter inside. The stylish interior has a giant map of the Lake District on one wall. Our food comes with friendly service, and it’s a good meal all around.
After lunch we continue our walk down the street, stopping at boutiques like The Corner Shop to browse for gifts. We can’t help getting coffee at a cute cafe called Homeground, too.
Bowness-on-Windermere
When we’re done browsing and buying, we make the 20-minute walk down the hill from Windermere to Bowness-on-Windermere. The latter is on the lake, and we find ourselves surrounded by more shops, cafes, pubs, and restaurants as we make our way to the waterfront.
There are boats of every shape and size here, and we’ve come to board one. We buy tickets for the ferry to Ambleside at the kiosk on the lake, then get in line to hop on.
The 35-minute journey on Lake Windermere is a scenic one. This is the longest and largest lake in England, after all, so there’s bound to be good views. We sit at the front of the boat, marveling at everything from the small islands to the lakeside homes and mountain peaks in the distance.
Ambleside
Soon we arrive in Ambleside, where there are more waterfront restaurants and cafes. It’s a 15-minute walk from the ferry to Rothay Manor, and we take in the lush green scenery as we go.
After checking in and dropping our bags in our room, we make the 5-minute walk into town. There’s a lot to see and do here, from cute shops to cafes and pubs.
We spend the afternoon browsing and buying everything from chocolate to hiking clothes. When we’re done, we settle in for drinks on the terrace at The Flying Fleece. It’s right on the river, and we enjoy views of the 17th-century stone Bridge House as we sip.
Back at Rothay Manor, we’ve been invited to enjoy a complimentary dinner at the award-winning restaurant. After a round of drinks in the bar area, we’re ushered into the dining room for our meal. Everything from cured trout to pan-fried halibut goes down a treat, and it’s a great end to our first day in Cumbria.
Day 2
The next morning our 3 days in the Lake District continue as we make our way back to the restaurant for breakfast. It’s so sunny we’re tempted to sit outside on the terrace.
But we love the William Morris wallpaper and fabrics in the restaurant so much we opt for indoor dining. Eggs Royale set us up for the day, and soon we’re off on our next adventure.
Walk
Using a map the receptionist at Rothay Manor gives us, we head out on a 4-mile (6.4-kilometer) walk to Grasmere. It takes us over bridges, along the River Rothay, past woodlands, next to pastures full of classic Herdwick sheep, and out to Rydal Water.
When we reach the lake, we head uphill and find ourselves at Rydal Cave. This famous human-made cavern on the north side of Loughrigg Fell is stunning to see. We walk inside, enjoying the reflection of the sky off the water as we explore.
After visiting the cave, we continue our walk to Grasmere along the southern side of Rydal Water. We love the views of the lake from above.
Eventually we descend back to the waterfront, crossing a footbridge and walking along the road as we make our way to Grasmere.
On the way we stop to admire the outside of Dove Cottage, the former home of celebrated poet William Wordsworth. Now a museum, it’s a beautiful place to see.
Grasmere
Not far away, we find ourselves in the heart of Grasmere. This is one of my favorite villages in the Lake District, not least because of the charming streets, boutiques, and cafes. There’s also a famous spot called the Grasmere Gingerbread Shop.
We start there. Miraculously, there aren’t very many people waiting ahead of us when we arrive. We enter the tiny shop, which is set in a 1630s schoolhouse, and order gingerbread and chocolate. I’ve been here on every visit to the Lake District, and it’s fun to keep the tradition going.
Back outside, we bite into the crunchy, gingery sweets, letting ourselves be transported back to 1854 when the recipe was invented by Victorian cook Sarah Nelson.
Gingerbread enjoyed, we pop into local shops like Herdy, which sells cute sheep-themed souvenirs, and take in St Oswald’s Church and the pretty stone buildings that line the streets.
Eventually we stop for lunch at Mathilde’s Cafe. With a sunny terrace and a bright, modern interior, this order-at-the-counter restaurant has delicious food and great atmosphere. My hummus platter goes down a treat.
Keswick
After lunch we hop on bus 555 for the 30-minute ride to Keswick. Paying for our tickets as we board, we head up to the top level and enjoy stunning views of the Lake District countryside as we make our way north.
The bus drops us off in the heart of Keswick. We spend the afternoon exploring the shops, browsing the wares at an outdoor market, and walking along the shores of Derwentwater.
We pop into gift shops like Love the Lakes and Fine Designs. From there we pick up coffees at Yonder before wandering down to the waterfront. We walk out to the famous Friar’s Crag viewpoint to take in the sweeping panoramas across the lake.
Back in town, we settle in for mocktails and small plates at an outdoor table in front of Fellpack. It’s a great place to soak up the northern sun and rest our legs after walking around town.
When we’re done, we hit up shops like Treeby & Bolton, The Orchid House, and Bookends as we make our way back to the bus stop.
We arrive 20 minutes early (I remember from my last trip that big lines form for the buses in the late afternoons), and we sit on the top level of bus 555 bus for the 45-minute ride to Ambleside.
Ambleside
When the bus drops us off, we freshen up at Rothay Manor before heading back into town for dinner. We eat at a place called Fellini’s. With a welcoming atmosphere and delicious food, it’s a great place to end a big day of exploring Cumbria.
Day 3
The next morning we continue our itinerary for 3 days in the Lake District with breakfast at Rothay Manor and another country walk.
Walk
We’re off to the Sweden Bridges this time. We pick up a map from the hotel reception, then head out for our hike. The walk is a 4.3-mile (7-kilometer) circular route starting and ending in Ambleside.
Leaving town, we find ourselves ascending a hill that offers increasingly good views of the town and surrounding countryside. We pass through wooded areas, spot grazing sheep, and enjoy the fresh country air as we go.
Eventually we’re rewarded with the sight of High Sweden Bridge. This 17th-century packhorse bridge was built on the route that connected Ambleside to Patterdale before the construction of the Kirkstone Pass.
We admire the arched stone bridge and the water running beneath it, then cross over and continue our walk in open fields as we make our way back towards Ambleside.
We take in amazing views of the Lake District on the way down the hill, and eventually reach Low Sweden Bridge. We cross over it and find ourselves entering an enchanting woodland area.
Ambleside
It’s a short walk from there back into town, and when we arrive we head to lunch at a riverside restaurant called The Apple Pie Cafe & Bakery.
We settle in at a table on the terrace at this family-run spot, then order inside before tucking into heaping salad plates. It’s a great reward after our hike.
When we’re done with lunch, we get our caffeine fix at ASAP Coffee before heading back to Rothay Manor. We pick up our bags, walk to the lake, and buy tickets for the ferry to Bowness.
Bowness-on-Windermere
Soon we’re off on the water again, and before long we’re back in Bowness. We have a couple hours before our train to London, so we settle in at an outdoor table at the Village Inn for drinks.
Windermere
When we’re done, we hop on bus 508, which takes us up the hill and into Windermere. There we enjoy more al fresco drinks at The Crafty Baa, an atmospheric family-run pub with a cozy interior and quirky upcycled decor.
From there it’s a minute’s walk to Windermere station. While waiting for our train, we pop into the huge Booths supermarket next door to buy provisions for the ride home.
Soon we’re off to Oxenholme, where we change trains for a direct service to London. In less than three-and-a-half hours, we’re back at Euston and on our way home.
Lake District in 3 Days Without Driving
It’s been an amazing trip to the Lake Distrct, and we’ve enjoyed everything from the wonderful hotel stay to the walks, restaurants, shops, towns, and views.
I hope my itinerary has inspired you to follow in our footsteps and visit the Lake District without a car. If you do want to drive, you can take a look at my itinerary for 3 days in the Lake District with a car.
Map
As promised, I’ve created an interactive Google map of all the places we visited on our trip. You can find it here. I hope it helps you plan your own trip to the Lake District!
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