I love exploring London on foot. That’s particularly true in the City of London, where narrow passageways and historic lanes make for great discoveries. They also reveal some of the UK capital’s oldest and most atmospheric pubs. If you love walks and watering holes as much as I do, read on for my City of London pub walk. There’s a map, too.
City of London Historic Pub Walking Tour
Right in the heart of London, the City (aka the Square Mile) has some of the richest architectural history and many of the most important heritage buildings in the UK capital. Some of them are pubs.
From centuries-old numbers to Victorian extravaganzas, the pubs in this part of London are worth seeing. And given they’re also worth popping into for food and drinks, my favorite way to experience them is on a walk (those calories aren’t going to burn themselves, right?).
Whether you’re interested in haunted pubs with ghost stories, 19th-century gin palaces, or heritage buildings with unique architecture, there’s something for everyone on this A Lady in London walking tour.
London walks
If you’re interested in other routes (including my regular City of London walk), you can see all my free self-guided ones on my London walking tours blog post and my London walking map. I’ve even written about country pub walks near London.
There are other walks in the book London’s Hidden Walks, too. You can get it here. There are additional ideas in my London walking books post as well.
If you’re looking for a guided tour, you can see options and book one here. These pub walks are great ways to see the area with an experienced local.
Before You Go
But back to this walk. My self-guided City of London pub walk will take you on a trip through the past. It will lead you from pub to pub via big attractions and hidden courtyards, historic lanes and medieval streets.
Before you do this walk, make sure to check opening hours of the pubs along the route. Some are closed on weekends or on certain weekdays, so you’ll want to be prepared.
Additionally, remember to pace yourself. There are a lot of pubs on the route, and there’s no need to eat and drink in all of them (and they all serve soft drinks). You can even break up the walk and do it over several days.
I’ve also included some non-pub sites along the way to give you some time to digest between taverns. From iconic landmarks to important churches and famous criminal courts, there’s plenty to see along the way.
London Pub Walk Route
This most historic of London walks starts at Bank station. It’s served by multiple tube lines and local buses. You can also arrive on foot or by bicycle or scooter from other parts of the city.
Bank station is surrounded by historic buildings. One is the Bank of England. Another is the Royal Exchange, which has has a beautiful interior that’s worth popping in to see before you start off.
Back outside the station, head west on Poultry, passing The Ned hotel (it’s a great place to stay if you want to base yourself in the area). Stay on Poultry as it becomes Cheapside.
When you reach Queen Street, turn left. After passing an Edwardian pub called The Golden Fleece, turn right on Well Court. This narrow passageway will lead you to Bow Lane, a historic pedestrianized street in London.
Williamson’s Tavern
Turn left on Bow Lane, then duck into Groveland Court on your right. This skinny alley will lead you to Williamson’s Tavern. Only open on weekdays, this pub is steeped in both history and ghost stories.
The original building dates to the 17th century, when it was the residence of several Lord Mayors of London. It was largely reconstructed in the early 20th century, and the pub has 1930s-style interiors.
According to a sign on the pub, King William III and Queen Mary II dined on the premises when it was the Lord Mayor’s residence. The Grade II-listed wrought iron gates at the end of the court are said to have been a gift from them, and they feature their royal monogram.
Williamson’s Tavern is thought to hold the oldest excise license in the City of London. The pub also claims to be located in the exact center of the ancient Roman city of Londinium. Legend has it that there’s a stone on the floor to mark the spot (it’s covered by a carpet).
Furthermore, it’s rumored that some ancient Roman bricks or tiles were incorporated into a fireplace when they were discovered during the 1930s rebuild.
On top of all that, Williamson’s Tavern is haunted. It’s said that there’s a resident ghost named Martha, who is a poltergeist.
Martha’s presence has allegedly led police dogs to growl and refuse to come closer as they pass the end of the lane. Long-serving staff say they’ve seen a painting of Martha in various parts of the pub, but no such painting exists.
If you want to stop here for a meal while you’re on your walk, the pies at Williamson’s Tavern are famous.
Ye Olde Watling
After seeing or exploring the pub, head back out to Bow Lane and turn right. Soon you’ll reach Watling Street, which was part of one of the most important ancient Roman roads in Britain.
On the opposite corner of Bow Lane and Watling Street, you’ll find Ye Olde Watling. This pub is said to have been rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren (architect of nearby St Paul’s Cathedral) in 1668 after the Great Fire of London.
It’s believed that Wren rebuilt the pub to house his workers and give them somewhere to drink. The pub also claims that the plans for St Paul’s Cathedral were drawn up in what is now the dining room.
Ye Olde Watling is made of old timbers from ships, and inside you’ll find classic interiors with dark wood and dim lighting galore. If you want a meal or drink, this place is known for its pies, cask ales, and extensive whiskey and gin selections.
St Paul’s Cathedral
After Ye Olde Watling, continue your pub walk by heading west down Watling Street to get to St Paul’s Cathedral. Designed and built between 1675 and 1710, the cathedral is famous for its stunning dome (which has great views) and breathtaking interiors.
One of the most important churches in London, St Paul’s Cathedral has been host to everything from the the marriage of Prince Charles and Diana Spencer to the funerals of Lord Nelson and Winston Churchill. You can tour it if you want to (book tickets here), or just admire it from the outside.
When you’re finished, continue your walk by heading west down the street called Ludgate Hill and turning left on Creed Lane. When you reach Carter Lane, you’ll see the historic facade of The Rising Sun pub to your right.
Continue your walk by heading south down Burgon Street to the left of The Rising Sun. This passageway is lined with colorful shopfronts. It will lead you to Ireland Yard, where you’ll find yourself in front of the unique facade of The Cockpit pub.
Turn right on Ireland Yard, keeping straight on the lane as it becomes Playhouse Yard. When you reach Black Friars Lane, turn left and follow it down to Queen Victoria Street.
Turn right on Queen Victoria Street and walk under the railway bridge. When you emerge on the other side, you’ll find the striking flatiron facade of The Blackfriar pub on your right.
The Blackfriar
The Blackfriar is one of the most beautiful pubs in London. A Grade II-listed Art Nouveau building, this place dates back to 1875. It’s known for its stunning design and decor.
The pub was built on the site of a medieval Dominican friary. It was redesigned by architect Herbert Fuller-Clark at the beginning of the 20th century, and much of the decor was done by artist Henry Poole and sculptor Frederick Callcott. All three men were proponents of the Arts and Crafts Movement.
Inside you’ll find ornamental balconies, sculptures, reliefs, stained glass, mosaics, and a famous black friar standing guard above the front door. They’ve earned it a place on the Campaign for Real Ale’s National Inventory of Historic Pub Interiors.
The Blackfriar was saved from demolition and redevelopment by Sir John Betjeman in the 1960s. If you want to raise a glass to him, you can go inside and try one of the cask ales.
The Old Bailey
From The Blackfriar, you can continue your pub walk by heading north up New Bridge Street. When you reach Ludgate Hill, turn right, then make a quick left on Limeburner Lane.
This curving street will take you past modern buildings as you make your way to Old Bailey. Turn left when you get there and follow the street north past the historic Central Criminal Court (nicknamed the Old Bailey after the street it’s on).
The Old Bailey is the most famous criminal court in the world. There’s been a prison and/or court on this site since at least the end of the 12th century (including the infamous Newgate Prison).
The current building was designed by Edward Mountford and opened in 1907 by King Edward VII. There’s deeper history here, though. A section of the ancient Roman City wall is still preserved in the basement, and across the street you’ll see a fountain that marks the spot where executions were once held.
Famous trials that have taken place in the Old Bailey include those of Oscar Wilde, Dr Crippen, William Joyce (‘Lord Haw Haw’), John Christie, Quakers William Penn and William Mead, the Krays, and Peter Sutcliffe (the ‘Yorkshire Ripper’).
The Viaduct Tavern
Once you’ve admired the Old Bailey, keep walking north until you come to Newgate Street. Across the road you’ll spot the eye-catching facade of The Viaduct Tavern on the corner.
This pub dates back to the late 19th century, and its interiors were remodeled around the turn of the 20th century. Named after the nearby Holborn Viaduct, The Viaduct Tavern is the last remaining example of a Victorian gin palace. It even had an opium den on the first floor.
An original toll booth is still here, too. Legend has it that the landlord sold beer tokens from the booth to keep the money away from his bar staff.
There are old prison cells in the cellar (although it’s debatable whether they’re authentic). A painting in the bar has a hole in it that was apparently made from the bayonet of a soldier who got in a fight here during World War I. It’s rumored there are ghosts as well.
Holy Sepulchre Church
Leaving The Viaduct Tavern, make your way west down Holborn Viaduct. Soon you’ll pass the 17th-century Holy Sepulchre Church, the largest parish church in the City of London.
The Grade I-listed Holy Sepulchre Church is famous for several things, but two stand out for me. The first is that it is the burial place of Captain John Smith of Pocahontas fame. He was buried here in 1633, and he is commemorated in the south wall by a stained-glass window.
The second is the bells. The bells of the church are referred to in the famous nursery rhyme Oranges and Lemons as the “bells of Old Bailey”. Given its proximity to Newgate Prison, certain bells here were rung to announce executions.
St Etheldreda’s Church
After taking in the church or going inside to see the interiors, continue walking west down Holborn Viaduct until you reach Holborn Circus. Turn right on Charterhouse Street (or walk through the little park on your right), then turn left on Ely Place.
This historic street in Holborn is home to St Etheldreda’s Church. Dating back to the 13th century, it’s one of only two surviving buildings in London from the reign of Edward I.
St Etheldreda’s Church was originally built to be the chapel of Ely Palace, the London residence of the Bishops of Ely. It’s an important piece of architectural history.
You can go inside to see the stunning stained glass and historic walls, or continue your pub walk by heading through the skinny Ely Court, a tiny passage that connects Ely Place to Hatton Garden.
Ye Olde Mitre
Here you’ll find one of the oldest pubs in London. Ye Olde Mitre dates back to 1547, and it’s one of my favorite watering holes in the city.
With a series of small wood-paneled rooms, it will whisk you off to a bygone era. Ye Olde Mitre has featured in famous London movies like Snatch as well.
You can pop in for a drink or meal if it’s a weekday (the pub is closed on weekends), or continue your walk by heading out to Hatton Garden. This is London’s diamond district, and you’ll find an abundance of jewelers on this street.
The Old Bell Tavern
Turn left on Hatton Garden, heading back down to Holborn Circus. Cross over and continue south on New Fetter Lane before turning left on St Andrew Street.
Follow it as it becomes Shoe Lane, and veer left as it turns into St Bride Street. Eventually it will take you down to Poppin’s Court. Veer right and walk the short distance down Poppin’s Court to Fleet Street.
When you reach Fleet Street, you’ll find the Victorian-era Punch Tavern in front of you to the left, and The Old Bell Tavern directly in front of you. The latter has been licensed for more than 300 years.
The Old Bell Tavern has a longstanding association with printing, as one of the first printing presses operated here around 1500.
The current structure of the pub was built by Sir Christopher Wren to house his masons during the rebuilding of nearby St Bride’s Church after the Great Fire of London in 1666.
If you want to go inside for food and drinks, The Old Bell Tavern is known for its range of pies served under pastry or mash. It also offers craft beers and an extensive range of gin and whiskey. The City of London Gin distillery is around the corner, and the pub serves a good selection of it.
St Bride’s Church
After The Old Bell Tavern, continue your pub walk by heading west down Fleet Street. On your left you’ll see St Bride’s Church down St Bride’s Avenue.
This house of worship was designed by Sir Christopher Wren in 1672. Legend has it that the church’s tiered spire was the inspiration for the traditional wedding cake. You can go inside to see the interior if you want to.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
After seeing St Bride’s, continue walking west down Fleet Street, taking in the historic buildings as you go. Don’t forget to turn around for great views of St Paul’s Cathedral behind you, too.
Soon you’ll see the historic Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese pub on your right. One of London’s last remaining 17th-century chophouses, this pub has a long history.
The site was originally a 13th-century Carmelite monastery, and a pub was built here in 1538. It burned down in the Great Fire of 1666 and was rebuilt in 1667.
Historical figures like Dr Samuel Johnson, Mark Twain, W.B. Yeats, and Charles Dickens all frequented the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. It’s even alluded to in the novel A Tale of Two Cities.
Entry is through a narrow passage off Fleet Street. Once inside, you’ll find a warren of wood-paneled rooms and cellars, not to mention legends of ghosts and tales of a parrot named Polly.
If you’re hungry, the signature dish here is Ye Olde Steak & Kidney Pudding. If not, it’s still worth getting a drink and exploring the different spaces here.
Ye Olde Cock Tavern
Leaving Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, continue your pub walk by strolling west down Fleet Street. Just outside the Square Mile (and right by Temple), you’ll spot the skinny facade of Ye Olde Cock Tavern on your left.
Dating from 1549 (and rebuilt on this site in 1887) this place is Grade II listed and is said to have the narrowest frontage of any London pub.
Describing itself as a “stylish gin palace”, Ye Olde Cock Tavern is a great place to take in historic interiors. They’re thought to include work by master wood carver Grinling Gibbons, who left his mark on Windsor Castle, Hampton Court Palace, St Paul’s Cathedral, and other notable buildings.
While a fire in the 1990s destroyed some of the original interiors, a faithful restoration brought it back to life. Today visitors can enjoy food and drinks here while taking in the ambiance that was once enjoyed by Samuel Pepys, Dickens, and Dr Johnson.
The Seven Stars
After leaving Ye Olde Cock Tavern, continue your walk by heading west down Fleet Street and turning right on Chancery Lane. Stroll up to Carey Street, turn left, and walk until you reach The Seven Stars pub in Holborn.
The Seven Stars is one of the oldest pubs in London. It dates back to 1602, and it’s thought that some interior beams survive from the original construction.
While neither the exterior nor the interior are particularly noteworthy from an aesthetic standpoint, this place is still important for its heritage. You can pop in for a bite or a tipple if you want to, then continue your walk.
Old Bank of England
Retrace your steps by heading east down Carey Street, then turn right on Bell Yard. Follow it down to Fleet Street, turn left, and you’ll find yourself in front of the Old Bank of England pub.
This place opened in 2013. Before it was a pub it was the former Bank of England’s Law Courts, which operated from 1888 to 1975.
If you’re familiar with Sweeney Todd: the Demon Barber of Fleet Street, the location is said to be directly between Sweeney Todd’s barber shop and Mrs Lovett’s pie shop.
The Old Bank of England has one of the most stunning pub interiors in all of London. With high ceilings, tall windows, and tile floors, you’ll feel the history as soon as you walk in.
The George
When you leave, continue your walk by heading west down Fleet Street. Stay on it as it becomes Strand, veering left as the road splits to make way for the Wren-designed St Clement Danes Church.
After passing the famous Twinings tea shop, you’ll come to The George. Established in 1723, this historic pub started life as George’s Coffee House.
Its half-timbered facade is enough to draw most people in, and its historic interiors are befitting of a pub of its age. You can pop in for a bite or a drink to take in the atmosphere.
Your pub walk ends at The George. You’re not far from Temple station if you want to pick up the tube, and there are plenty of local buses nearby. You can also continue your walk further afield if you want to.
London Pub Walking Tour Details & Map
London Pub Walk
I hope you’ve enjoyed this walk and that my blog post has inspired you to get out and follow the route yourself. It’s a great way to get some exercise, see some of London’s most famous historic pubs, enjoy traditional English food and drinks, and delve into the city’s past.
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