Cambodia is probably best known for its ancient temples, Angkor Wat being the most famous. But there´s a lot more to this country, from historical sites around Angkor to tropical beach escapes in Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem, and from the bustling city of Phnom Penh to sleepy riverside towns like Kampot. If you´re going to explore Angkor Wat, it´s worth tagging on a couple of weeks to explore the rest of the country. I´ve put together a 3 week Cambodia itinerary based on our trip around the country, with plenty of tips on what to visit and how to get around.
It’s a combination of temple touring (you obviously can’t miss Angkor Wat), cities, smaller towns and a beautiful island beach break.
3 Week Cambodia Itinerary
Day 1 – 5: Siem Reap & Angkor Wat: Temples and cycling
Day 6-8: Phnom Penh:
Day 9 – 10: Sihanoukville
Day 11 – 15: Koh Rong Samloem or Koh Rong
Day 16: Sihanoukville
Day 16-17: Kampot
Day 18 – 20: Kep
Day 1 – 5: Siem Reap (for Angkor Wat)
Fly into Siem Reap from Bangkok (Bangkok Airways flies several times a day, we were brave and chose Cambodia Angkor Air. Aside from being an hour delayed, no complaints). Angkor Wat is impressive enough to warrant a three day pass, which you can use on any three days within a week. I recommend taking a day off in between so you don’t get temple fatigue. There is plenty to do around Siem Reap: go on a boat tour of the markets, visit the landmine museum, take a cooking class or simply bike around the rice fields and nearby villages.
Take a look at my post on 4 days in Siem Reap and my Angkor Wat Basics Guide for more details.
Day 6-8: Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh is a fascinating city, albeit with a sad history. Its most visited sights, the Killing Fields and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (also known as S21 prison) tell the story of the Khmer Rouge era of Cambodia in the 1970s, when over 1.6 million Cambodians were killed in a regime of terror. These sights are sombering, so you should come mentally prepared. Take a walk along the river afterwards to reflect and come back to the Pnomh Penh of today. You can easily spend two to three days exploring the monuments, wandering the markets or just strolling along the river.
Phnom Penh has a nice foodie scene as well. In the evenings, I highly recommend trying some of the great eateries the city has to offer. Friends was my favourite, but restaurants like Romdeng and The Lost Room also get raving reviews.
Day 9 – 10: Sihanoukville
Sihanoukville splits travellers into two camps: Those who hate it and those who love it. It’s a bit seedy, the beaches can be packed, and plastic along some of the beaches has become an increasing problem in the last couple of years. But on the upside, you can spend a nice couple of days going for beach walks or just lying on the beach, eating fresh fruit that the vendors will happily serve you right by your lounge chair, and partaking in one of the many barbecues that happen on Serendipity Beach every night.
There are two other key reasons to spend time in Snooky, as the insiders call it: one, the Vietnamese Embassy in Sihanoukville is one of the fastest and cheapest in Asia (and probably worldwide) to get a Vietnam visa if that is your next destination. And two, Sihanoukville is a gateway to the best islands Cambodia has to offer.
Day 11 – 15: Koh Rong Samloem or Koh Rong
From Sihanoukville, head out to the islands of the Koh Rong Archipel. If you’re looking for beautiful beaches and a bit of party, Koh Rong is for you. If you want complete relaxation, head to Koh Rong Samloem, where you’ll find beautiful beaches, millions of crabs, a random herd of water buffalo, and a growing selection of boutique resorts and guest houses.
Life here is basic, but sometimes basic is perfect. There’s nothing more beautiful than taking a long walk on an empty beach. If you do need a bit more action, you can also go diving, snorkeling or kayaking from the island.
Day 16: Sihanoukville
Because you’ll likely get back to the mainland from Koh Rong or Koh Rong Samloem in the evening, you’ll make your life easier by staying in Sihanoukville for another night. After the secluded and quiet islands, it will seem like New York City at rush hour, but all will be good after grabbing a banana pancake and watching the sunset on Serendipity Beach.
Day 16-17: Kampot
Leave the coast to experience this quaint little town on the river. Kampot, famous for its pepper plantations, is a mix of colonial French architecture with Cambodian traditions and, I kid you not, a gigantic durian statue. Luckily they didn’t make it smell authentic.
In Kampot, visit the pepper plantations, try one of the famous Kampot pepper dishes or have some cocktails on the river. You can also hire a scooter and drive up to nearby Bokor Mountain, where you’ll find waterfalls that are popular weekend destinations of the locals, and an abandoned casino experienced heavy fighting during the war. Insider tip: Don’t drive up there with a half empty tank, or even better, a leaky tank (the way we did). Let your hotel or scooter provider explain to you exactly where to fill up your tank on the way up to ensure you make it back without having to walk. Sarah and Tom from TripGourmets have some great tips on things to do in Kampot.
Day 18 – 20: Kep
Back to the beach! Kep was the favourite holiday spot of wealthy Cambodians before the Khmer Rouge era. It was mostly abandoned, and the many mansions and holiday retreats with everything inside them was sold off when people fled from the Khmer Rouge. Today, it is slowly being rebuilt and is becoming popular again with both Khmers and foreign tourists.
My favourite spot was the Kep crab market, where you can buy fresh crab and other seafood straight from the source and have it cooked for you on the spot if you want to eat right there.
Have more time?
If you have more time, you can easily extend this Cambodia itinerary. Between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, you could throw in a stop in Battambang and go on a thrilling ride on the Bamboo railway.
There’s also plenty to do in Phnom Penh to extend your stay there.
If you want more island adventures, you could spend more time in both Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem or head to Rabbit Island from Kep.
Getting Around in Cambodia
Cambodia doesn´t have a rail network like neighboring Thailand and Vietnam, so the easiest way to get around the country is by bus. Check out our post on two of the main bus providers, Giant Ibis and Mekong Express, for details on this experience. Tickets can usually be bought directly at the bus stations, through your accommodation or even online. If you´re looking for a comfortable ride, it pays to shop around and do your research on the best providers. Even the “VIP” busses can vary greatly between providers. Giant Ibis has gotten a reputation for being the best option over the last few years, becoming very popular with foreign travelers.
If you´re short on time and covering a long distance, you can also fly between the main cities of Pnomh Pen and Siem Reap, and Siem Reap and Sihanoukville. Whilst we traveled only by bus / tuk tuk within Cambodia, we did fly in from Bangkok to Siem Reap with Cambodia Angkor Air, the national flag carrier of Cambodia. We found both flights and busses to be reasonably reliable, although you should always plan in for a couple of hours of delay – road works or additional passenger pick ups can sometimes slow down even the VIP buses.
Any questions about your Cambodia itinerary?
If you need any help with building your itinerary for Cambodia, leave me a comment with your questions and I’ll try to help.
Note: This post was originally published in 2015 and last updated in September 2019 with new info.
