Before I visited Tarragona I have to be honest and admit I didn’t know much about it at all, but on my whirlwind train journey around Spain I discovered a beautiful but yet still under-the-radar travel destination which would actually make a superb city break away from the crowds – here you can beautifully combine a mix of laid-back beach life and impressive ancient history.
Blessed with an ancient walled old town, UNESCO-listed Roman ruins as well as a collection of fine sandy beaches and natural surroundings, it’s a place where I honestly would have loved to stay a lot longer!
I found the picturesque small port city is located in northeast Spain, on Costa Daurada, and was founded before the 5th century BC. I personally thought its most stand-out features was the imposing amphitheatre, which overlooks the Mediterranean Sea and once held up to 14,000 spectators.
Once the capital of Hispania, I spent hours just wandering around the late 3rd-century city walls, gazing in awe at the necropolis and amphitheatre, and strolling the city’s buzzing main street, Rambla Nova, which was lined with fabulous bars and restaurants!
Seeing the Incredible Roman Ruins
The medieval part of the city is known as La Part Alta de Tarragona, and this is where I felt like I was walking around a Game of Thrones set! I really loved this place!
It was home to a very impressive collection of Roman ruins and artefacts and also a gothic cathedral which I really enjoyed discovering (it took me a full afternoon to explore both).
In 2000, Tarragona was named a World Heritage City by UNESCO and with good reason, the Roman ruins of Tarraco were truly inspiring and it’s believed that part of the Cyclopean walls pre-date the Romans which was fascinating to me!
The focal point of the Old Town was the Tarragona Amphitheatre which was built between the end of the 1st century BC and the start of the 2nd Century BC.
It used to be able to hold around 13,000 spectators and saw many gruesome gladiator battles and executions. For just a few euros I gained entry and took a few good hours exploring the whole site and unlike the Colosseum in Rome, I didn’t have restricted access.
I thought the Roman Circus of Tarragona was another special place and it’s actually one of the best-preserved sites of the Roman Empire. It was similar to Circo Massimo in Rome but held around 20,000 spectators and incredibly today some of the original walls still exist today.
As I strolled around, it really did feel like I was stepping back in time and I explored its underground passages, which must have once buzzed with activity from both the vendors and spectators!
I was seriously blown away by the city’s surrounding walls, built by the Romans way back in the 2nd century BC! I loved being able to walk alongthe 1,100 meters of the original 3,500-meter wall – and I found out that the walls were the oldest Roman structures still standing outside Italy!
The Cathedral
All major cities have a cathedral, but I really liked how the tour of Tarragona’s Cathedral of Santa Maria offered something a little bit different!
The locals were justifiably very proud of their beautiful cathedral and I went on a tour lasting around two and a half hours – the guide showed me the Cloister, the Treasure, the Diocesan Museum and the Roman temenós as well as a special treat of visiting the bell tower.
I arranged my tour for when the bells were rung which was a very loud but special experience!
The Beaches
The area of Costa Dorada is known as the ‘Golden Coast’ due to its miles of sandy beaches, and there are approximately ten miles of beach to choose from, so I was spoilt for choice!
The local beach for Tarragona was El Miracle which was only 500 metres long and only a short stroll from Rafael de Casanova promenade. This was my favorite beach – it was a very stunning beauty spot!
I found that a family-friendly beach not far from the city centre was L’Arrabassada Beach, and I also happened to stumble across La Savinosa which was a nudist beach.
The longest beach in the area, though, was Playa Larga, which was three kilometres long and I found was a peaceful spot for sunbathing and swimming.
When I grew bored of the beaches I gazed at locally iconic sea views from the Balcon del Mediterranean, a balcony at the end of the Rambla Bova, which was located right next to the amphitheatre.
Food and Drink
Being located next to the sea, there was seafood galore and my favourite dish ended up being ‘Cassola de Romesco’, a traditional local Catalan seafood stew especially associated with the fishing town of Cambrils.
I featured a mix of fresh fish and shellfish and was cooked in a rich and flavourful romesco sauce – a classic Catalan sauce made from toasted almonds, dried red peppers, garlic, olive oil, and tomatoes. It was divine!
Tarragona’s red prawns were also extremely tasty and I also really enjoyed making the most of Spain’s ‘Menu del Dia’ (Menu of the Day) where I could taste traditional and sometimes more modern and creative local dishes at a very reasonable price.
I also had to try their local Vermouth. Although the drink originated in Italy, the locals in Tarragona saw it as their special drink. So I headed to Plaza del Rey to enjoy a fresh vermouth on a terrace and indulged in a spot of people-watching at the same time!
My Final Thoughts on Tarragona
Tarragona completely won me over with its mix of ancient Roman ruins, sun-kissed golden beaches, and laid-back Mediterranean charm.
Whether I was wandering the cobbled lanes of the old town, gazing out over the sea from the Roman amphitheatre, or gorging on a cassola de romesco at a seaside restaurant, it felt like a place where history, culture, tasty cuisine and coastal beauty combined with not much effort at all!
It’s a surprisingly under-the-radar destination that to me felt authentic, easygoing, and full of hidden gems – and I left already planning my return!
Travelling Spain by Train
I found travelling around Spain by train surprisingly easy and efficient. High-speed AVE trains (Alta Velocidad Española) linked me to major cities at a speed of 186mph. I booked in advance online, so I found some great deals on fares at the official Spanish rail website, www.renfe.com.
