While Cortina d’Ampezzo is widely celebrated as the Queen of the Dolomites in winter, it’s in autumn that the town reveals a more intimate, golden-hued charm. The larches take centre stage, painting the slopes with warm colours. The crisp air invites long walks, seasonal festivals highlight mountain flavours, and the trails are free from crowds.
I’ve been to Cortina several times over the years (I also wrote about it as a low-cost destination in the Dolomites), and I can honestly say that autumn is one of the most rewarding seasons to visit. It offers a quieter, more authentic side of the mountains that’s easy to fall in love with.
For travellers seeking quiet beauty, culinary experiences, and cultural connection, autumn in Cortina is an inspired choice.
A Landscape Transformed
In late September and throughout October, the Ampezzo Valley becomes a canvas of burnt orange, amber, and gold. The dramatic Dolomite peaks—Tofane, Cristallo, and Cinque Torri—stand in sharp contrast to the fiery larch forests below. Temperatures are cool but still welcoming for hiking and cycling. And with the summer rush gone and winter not yet begun, Cortina enters its season of stillness—ideal for slow travel.
A Season of Mountain Festivals
Autumn in Cortina isn’t just about the landscape; it’s also when the town and its surroundings host a series of events that celebrate the region’s culinary heritage, traditions, and outdoor life.
Delicious Festival Dolomiti
📍 Cinque Torri and Lagazuoi
📅 26–27 September 2025
This two-day festival brings together trail running, hiking, and alpine gastronomy in a single, high-altitude experience. Whether joining a competitive trail run or opting for a scenic walk from rifugio to rifugio, the reward is the same: authentic mountain dishes served at altitude, made with local ingredients—think pumpkin soup, barley stew, mushrooms, and speck.
With the backdrop of Cinque Torri and the Lagazuoi ridge, this event is a celebration of Dolomite identity: sporty, scenic, and steeped in tradition.
As part of the festival, several other events will take place, including:
- Delicious Trail Dolomiti: Approximately 43 km with 3,100 metres of elevation gain, semi-self-sufficient, starting on Saturday, 27 September at 7:00 AM from the centre of Cortina d’Ampezzo
- Short Trail Dolomiti: 23 km with 1,300 metres of elevation gain, starting on Saturday, 27 September at 10:15 AM from Pocol
- Medium Delicious Trail: 35 km with 1,900 metres of elevation gain, starting on Saturday, 27 September 2025 at 9:00 AM from the centre of La Villa, in front of the tourist office
- Mini Delicious Trail Dolomiti: For children aged 5 to 13, starting from 7:30 AM
Desmonteà – Return from the Alpine Pastures
📍 Cortina and surrounding villages
📅 Mid-October (date varies)
The Desmonteà marks the traditional return of cows, sheep, and goats from the high pastures to the valleys before winter. Livestock, decorated with flowers and bells, parade through the streets, accompanied by music, families in traditional Ladin dress, and stalls selling mountain products.
It’s one of the few times where centuries-old alpine tradition is still celebrated in such a public and joyous way—offering travellers a real insight into the rural rhythm of life in the Dolomites.
Check this page for uptodate info about this event.
Sellaronda Bike Day – Autumn Edition
📍 Sella Pass circuit, including Cortina/Arabba area
📅 13 September 2025
Before the leaves begin to fall, cyclists from across Europe gather to ride the Sellaronda circuit, which for one day is closed to cars. The 58km loop covers four iconic Dolomite passes, including views over Cortina’s high ridges. It’s a non-competitive ride for everyone from amateurs to seasoned cyclists, and the early-autumn colours make the route even more spectacular. To find out more, click here.
Autumn Hikes Among Golden Larches
Beyond the events, the real star of autumn is the landscape itself. Hiking trails remain accessible into late October, and the golden larches make each walk feel like a moving postcard.
Recommended routes:
- Larieto Forest to Rifugio Mietres: One of Europe’s largest larch forests, glowing with colour in October.
- Cinque Torri and WWI Open-Air Museum: Combine nature and history in a stunning panoramic setting.
- Forcella Zumeles: A peaceful and scenic trail with views over the Boite Valley and Monte Cristallo.
Many rifugi stay open through early October, offering warm dishes and a chance to pause and take in the silence.
Wellness and Culture in the Shoulder Season
Cortina’s off-season also makes room for reflection and relaxation. Several hotels and lodges offer spa and wellness facilities, including outdoor saunas, alpine herb massages, and heated pools with mountain views.
For indoor culture, consider a visit to:
These small but insightful museums reflect the deep connection between the land and its people, adding context to your mountain adventure.
Where to Stay: Alpine Charm in the Heart of Town
For a central yet cosy base that reflects the elegance of Cortina itself, Hotel Ancora is an excellent choice. A member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, this historic property—dating back to 1826—sits right on Corso Italia, within walking distance of shops, restaurants, and many of the seasonal events.
The interiors combine Ladin tradition with refined mountain decor, offering wood-panelled rooms, hand-carved details, and warm hospitality. Some rooms come with stunning views of the Dolomites, and the in-house restaurant is known for its gourmet take on Alpine cuisine.
Whether you’re here for autumn hiking or festival-hopping, Hotel Ancora offers both comfort and character—a perfect fit for a stay in Cortina’s quieter, golden season.
Why Visit Cortina in Autumn?
In autumn, Cortina slows down, but doesn’t sleep. The crowds thin, the views intensify, and the local life becomes more visible. With a calendar full of authentic events, golden forests, warm dishes, and peaceful walks, it’s the perfect time to experience the Dolomites in a different light.
Whether you come for a weekend of mountain flavours, a cycling challenge, or quiet days on the trails, Cortina in autumn is both a celebration and a retreat, a blend of tradition, nature, and alpine elegance.
Lived in England since 1998 and travelled the world since 2005, visiting over 100 countries on 5 continents. Writer, blogger, photographer with a passion for adventure and travel, discovering those off beat places not yet on the tourist trail. Marco contributes the very best in independent travel tips and lifestyle articles.
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