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Tucked away in the woodlands of Cary, North Carolina, just minutes from our home near Raleigh, is a five-star escape that feels a world away from the noise of everyday life.
The Umstead Hotel and Spa isn’t loud about its luxury. It doesn’t boast sweeping views of the ocean or glittering urban towers, or offer state of the art everything.
Instead, it’s a modest luxury, that quietly lures you in with a serenity that pulls you out of the modern world, and into a serene woodland setting that beckons you to switch off and relax.
We were thrilled of the chance to finally escape from our chaotic life to retreat into the Umstead’s sophisticated serenity for an overnight stay, leaving the kids to fend for themselves. (Welcome to our new phase of travel sans teenage kids, who no longer want to be around us anyway!)
About Umstead Hotel and Spa
The Umstead Hotel and Spa is located in Cary, just a short 15-minute drive away from downtown Raleigh, 10-minutes from the Research Triangle Park in Durham and RDU International Airport.
Despite being close to all the hustle and bustle and major attractions in Raleigh, it’s incredibly peaceful, with 12 acres of lakefront landscape and breathtaking views of the Umstead State Park forest.
It has 150 luxury suites and guest rooms, and has been recognized by AAA as a Five-Diamond property and by Condé Nast Traveler as the third-best hotel in the U.S.
It was even picked up by Forbes Travel Guide, who gave the hotel, it’s restaurant, and spa a Five-Star award, the highest-achievable ranking from Forbes.
In fact, it’s the only hotel in North Carolina to have earned a Forbes five star rating, and one of the only hotels in the world to earn triple five star status.
A place where luxury whispers, not shouts
We’ve stayed in many luxury hotels around the globe, but The Umstead offers something we rarely find: a slow-blooming wow.
There’s no flashy entrance or opulent chandelier moment. Instead the Umstead Hotel & Spa immediately lets you know what they stand for: the beauty of art and supporting local.
In the lobby lounge stands an artistic floral installation that changes weekly, thoughtfully designed by the local Watered Garden Florist.
We were greeted by a stunning arrangement that felt like a living sculpture — soft hues, elegant curves, and an inviting natural botanical fragrances that instinctively drew me in to breathe it all in.
It was the perfect first impression: a quiet celebration of beauty, nature, and local artistry.
These small, thoughtful touches continued throughout our stay —getting walked to the elevator upon check in, a morning amuse-bouche juice shot, an intricate tart to start your dinner, chocolates on your pillow at turndown — creating an atmosphere of quiet and elegant indulgence.
The Umstead is a place where the details matter. Its mid-century modern architecture, with clean lines and soft natural accents, creates a visual harmony that invites you to slow down and savor your surroundings.
It’s rare for me to fall in love with the architecture of a hotel, but The Umstead completely captivated me.
There’s a timeless elegance to its design that feels both grounded and elevated — classy without being flashy, and undeniably sophisticated.
It adds another layer to the hotel’s overall allure and leaves you quietly planning your return before you’ve even left.
What we loved about our stay at Umstead Hotel and Spa
When we arrived for our long-dreamed-of stay at Umstead Hotel and Spa, the skies were ominous and rain was falling in sheets.
But as any seasoned traveler knows, magic often happens when you embrace what nature delivers.
We took the weather as a sign to lean into the stimulating spa — where hot tubs, saunas, steam rooms, and soft-lit lounges worked their magic.
But as we started the check in process, the clouds began to part, and we shouted, “hold that sauna for tomorrow!” We must seize the day lazing around the pool.
1. The Umstead Pool
Soaking in the unexpected sunshine by the pool, surrounded by trees and stillness, felt like a gift from the universe.
It’s hard to fully capture what made me fall head over heels for The Umstead’s pool, but I’ll try.
There’s a quiet magic to it—a sense of stillness and restoration that comes from being surrounded by towering trees, as if nature is gently holding space for your relaxation.
Sitting there felt like being perched in a luxurious treehouse, suspended between the sky and the forest floor.
And if your budget allows, a private cabana could easily turn that peaceful pause into a next-level indulgence.
It’s rare for us to spend hours lounging poolside, but that’s exactly what we did.
The water was perfectly heated, and the setting was so serene, we simply couldn’t peel ourselves away. And if you want even warmer waters, there is small hot tub in the pool area for you to enjoy!
Attentive servers brought crisp salads, complimentary refreshing watermelon slices, and handcrafted cocktails right to our lounge chairs, elevating the experience without interrupting the calm.
We returned to our favorite poolside spot the next morning, soaking up every last sunbeam until early afternoon storms rolled in—right on cue for our next chapter of rest: the spa. Perfect timing, once again.
2. The Umstead Spa: A True Five-Star Experience
The Umstead Spa has a long list of top-notch spa services and indulgent spa treatments, providing options for all seasons and weather!
Strictly phone-free (and refreshingly so), it’s a modern-day version of ancient Roman baths.
Lounge chairs, infused water, cucumber snacks, and silence—sweet silence—are all part of the experience.
You can choose to socialize in the co-ed areas or retreat to the women-only sanctuary, where I had my rare, precious “me time.”
Next time, we’re booking massages. This time, it was enough to simply be, popping in and out of whirlpools, steam rooms and saunas. You can also get facials and manicures, and they have complimentary yoga classes on weekends.
Sadly, thanks to the rain, I could not spend time in the peaceful meditation courtyard. #nexttime
So if you do plan on a five star Umstead spa experience allow enough time to enjoy the spa amenities before and after.
3. Our Umstead Room
The Umstead Hotel and Spa has 150 spacious guest rooms, but when you choose your room type, be sure to get one with a balcony.
The balcony was small, but it quickly became our favorite spot in our room. It gave us a panoramic view that perfectly captured the essence of the resort: the serene swimming pool nestled among the trees, the immaculately landscaped garden, the elegant outdoor terrace where guests dined al fresco, and the tranquil lake with its gentle fountain.
The hotel offers a range of accommodations in all shapes and sizes, but if you’re treating yourself to a stay at a five-star property like this, don’t skimp out and not book a room with a balcony.
There’s something incredibly special about having your own private perch to witness the quiet beauty of the grounds, especially with a glass of wine at sunset or a morning espresso in hand.
4. Dining at Herons: Art, Cuisine, and Quiet Sophistication
Dinner at Herons is like attending a fine art performance — it’s elegant, immersive, and unforgettable.
Every dish is a celebration of the season, with a menu crafted by James Beard semifinalist (2019) James Greene, using locally sourced ingredients and presented with thoughtful storytelling.
Even the lamb, rich and tender, was sourced from a North Carolina farm — not halfway across the world.
A note to add and love, many of the vegetables and herbs are sourced from the hotels very own farm, located just a mile away! This is why the Heron has such exquisite food, you won’t find fresher!
I’ve never experienced anything quite like it, and now I fully understand why so many locals choose Herons to celebrate their most special occasions.
From the moment you’re seated, the magic begins — not just with the courses you order, but with the additional touches: delicate amuse-bouches, palate-cleansing interludes, and petit fours and house-made macarons to close out the experience.
It’s generous and graceful, and every bite is memorable.
Our four-course tasting turned into a procession of spring-inspired wonders: oysters from Harkers Island, a rich fennel soup with Dungeness crab, buttery sea scallops, Maine lobster, perfectly cooked lamb with a surprise slice of lamb belly (like elevated bacon), and wagyu beef that melted on the tongue.
Dessert was an artwork of its own—a decadent chocolate ganache and a beautifully deconstructed panna cotta showcasing fresh strawberry.
Even the sauces were a performance: poured table-side with flourish and explained in full, so you could savor each element with understanding and appreciation.
Our servers offered high levels fo service — they were knowledgeable, attentive, and genuinely passionate about the world-class cuisine.
The sommelier delighted in sharing his love for Australian wines (a sentiment we proudly share) and paired our meal with a stunning bottle of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon. You’re bound to find a bottle of your favorite as the wine list reads like a book, featuring wines from every corner of the globe.
The elegance extends beyond the food. The dining room has a full-view kitchen, plush furnishings, and floor-to-ceiling windows.
But don’t let the indulgence end with dinner. In the morning, return to Herons’ terrace for a leisurely breakfast bathed in sunshine and garden views.
My French-style omelet with chorizo, sugar snap peas, and local cheese was a savory delight.
Craig’s avocado toast—topped with English peas, radish, goat cheese, and pistachios—was a masterpiece of texture and freshness.
And once again, the service was spot on: attentive, warm, and quietly exceptional, the kind of local hospitality that makes you feel completely at ease.
5. The Lobby Lounge
The Umstead also has a bar and lounge for lunch, snacks, coffee, cocktails and afternoon tea. It often has live entertainment in the evenings.
The only thing we did not like about the Umstead (and we did try to find things for you), were their lattes and cappuccinos we ordered in the lounge.
They were overpriced and not very good. Long term readers will not be surprised as you know we’re Australian coffee snobs. Their black coffee and Nespresso in the rooms, however, were good!
6. Allows for reconnecting with nature—and each other
Over our two day stay, we fully embraced what The Umstead does best: slowing you down so you can reconnect. Not just with your partner, but with yourself.
We sipped a glass of Margaret River’s Vasse Felix Cabernet on our balcony as the moon rose above the treetops.
In the morning, it was an Nespresso and birdsong. We watched squirrels dance across branches and the fountain shimmer in the private lake below.
It’s a sanctuary of stillness—and it’s all by design.
The Umstead Hotel and Spa gently guides you along a tranquil path woven with art, nature, and wellness.
Nestled beneath towering Carolina pines, the property overlooks a serene three-acre lake adorned with fountains that mirror the gentle rhythm of the surrounding landscape.
And for those who wish to extend their connection with nature, the hotel sits right next to the renowned Umstead State Park—one of North Carolina’s top outdoor escapes, offering miles of wooded trails for hiking, biking, and quiet reflection.
It’s a seamless transition from curated luxury to untouched wilderness, should you feel called to explore beyond the hotel’s peaceful boundaries.
The path meandered through a charming butterfly garden—though the butterflies must have been on vacation that day.
We passed on a more vigorous outdoor adventure and instead opted for a peaceful wander along the hotel’s quarter-mile lake trail. And honestly? It was far more delightful than I expected.
Still, we were treated to gnarly, storybook-like trees, vibrant spring blooms in every direction, and a small wooden boardwalk that led us to a hidden fountain not visible from the main hotel grounds. We were delighted to see our Australian native red bottlebrush brightening up the forest!
Umstead’s nature trail felt like a little secret oasis tucked away just for us.
A gentle stroll suited our overnight wellness break perfectly—but not everyone was taking it slow.
I watched one guest run lap after lap around the trail early in the morning, clearly energized by the fresh air and scenic surroundings.
If jogging or walking isn’t quite your style, don’t worry. The hotel also has a well-equipped fitness center with everything you need to move, stretch, and sweat.
Or, take advantage of the complimentary bike rentals and explore the expansive trails of nearby Umstead State Park.
Whether you’re craving a heart-pumping workout or a leisurely cruise through the woods, The Umstead offers wellness on your terms.
Final Thoughts
We’ve stayed in world-class resorts across six continents—but The Umstead Hotel and Spa reminded us that true luxury travel isn’t about extravagance. It’s about intentionality. Stillness. A deep breath. A glass of wine under the stars.
And most of all, it’s about how a place makes you feel.
During our stay, I felt a deep reconnection to nature, to presence, and to gratitude—something I didn’t realize I had been missing.
In a world that moves too fast, The Umstead gave me permission to slow down and just be.
I know that when life inevitably becomes hectic again, and I feel myself unraveling at the edges, I don’t need to book a long-haul flight or plan a complicated escape.
I just need to drive ten minutes down the road to this haven of peace, where my soul can exhale and find its way back to center.
Our stay and dinner was hosted The Umstead Hotel, however we received no monetary compensation related to this blog post and all opinions are my own!
