The Royal Barge Procession is a memorable spectacle to witness. The normal bustle of the Chao Phraya River comes to a standstill as the usual ferries and longtail boats make way for the royal flotilla. Standing on the banks of the river, all is silent except for the rhythmic chants of the oarsmen as the barges glide past in carefully rehearsed unison. Although this ancient ceremony dates back centuries, much of the original pomp and colour remains in modern times with hundreds of oarsmen dressed in Ayutthaya-style uniforms.
History of the Royal Barge Procession
It’s thought that the Royal Barge Procession first took place in the 14th century during the Ayutthaya period of Thailand’s history. The ceremony continued on regular occasions up until the Burmese invasion of Ayutthaya in 1767 which resulted in hundreds of the barges there being burned and destroyed. Following the sacking of Ayutthaya, General Taksin established the new capital at Thonburi and ordered the reconstruction of the barge fleet. In the wake of Taksin’s death, General Chakri became king and the first monarch (Rama I) in what would become the Chakri dynasty. It was King Rama I who moved the capital from Thonburi to the other side of the Chao Phraya River to present-day Bangkok and also established the Royal Kathin Ceremony using the fleet of barges.
The Royal Barge Procession took place on select occasions up until the 1932 revolution and the end of the absolute monarchy in Thailand. The water-borne spectacle did not resume until 1957 and in 1959 King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) revived the tradition of the Royal Barge Procession for the Royal Kathin Ceremony.
Royal Kathin Ceremony
The Thod Kathin Robes Ceremony takes place following the end of Buddhist Lent (Awk Phansa). As part of the Royal Kathin Ceremony, new robes are presented to monks at Wat Arun in Bangkok by the Thai monarch or his representative who travels on the royal barge carrying the robes.
Dates of the Royal Barge Procession
This is an infrequent event in modern times, but it still takes place on Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River for certain special occasions:
- 2003: for the APEC meeting in Thailand
- 2006: for the Diamond Jubilee of King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX)
- 2007: 80th birthday of King Bhumibol Adulyadej
- 2012: Royal Kathin Ceremony to honour King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s auspicious 84th* birthday celebrations (the original event was scheduled for 2011)
- 2019: in honour of Thailand’s new monarch, King Maha Vajiralongkorn (Rama X)
- 2024: in honour of King Maha Vajiralongkorn’s 72nd* birthday (see details of the 2024 event further below)
The auspicious 12-year cycle in Thai culture
In traditional Thai culture, special birthdays and anniversaries are celebrated in 12-year cycles linked to the signs of the zodiac. The completion of each twelve-year cycle is important because it brings them back to their birth-year animal. So, a 60th, 72nd, or 84th birthday/anniversary is auspicious.
Royal Barge Museum
The vessels used in the ceremony are usually kept in a covered dock at the National Museum of Royal Barges. In the months leading up to the Royal Barge Procession, the boats are moved to the Royal Thai Navy dockyard for final preparations.
The largest boat in the royal fleet is the Suphannahong Royal Barge which carries the King and is crewed by 50 oarsmen. The barge is easily recognised by its distinctive golden figurehead in the shape of a mythical swan-like creature known as a hong. Dangling from the mouth of the hong is a tasselled, lotus-shaped crystal. According to Thai folklore, when this sways in the breeze prayers are lifted to heaven.
Located on the Thonburi side of the river, the National Museum of Royal Barges is open daily to the public. The two nearest passenger boat piers are Tha Thonburi Railway Station (pier number N11) and Tha Phra Pinklao (pier number N12). The nearest MRT metro station is Bang Khun Non, but this is a 30-minute walk away.
Royal Barge Procession route
The procession usually starts from the royal pier, Tha Wasukri. From here, the barges are rowed along the Chao Phraya River towards either Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn) or Ratchaworadit Pier near the Grand Palace.
The ceremony usually involves 52 elaborately decorated barges and over 2,000 oarsmen. All of the personnel used in the ceremony are selected from the Royal Thai Navy and they undergo months of practice ahead of the main event. As the flotilla glides down the Chao Phraya River the barges form five columns with the main royal vessels in the middle flanked by the escort barges.
Signalmen standing at the front of each barge raise and lower flags to direct the oarsmen. At the stern of the barge, an oarsman stands on either side to act as the rudder.
Attending the Royal Barge Procession or rehearsals
There are numerous rehearsals, including dress rehearsals, in the months leading up to the main event. The rehearsals usually commence from Tha Wasukri, the royal pier in the Dusit district of Bangkok. The barges are then rowed along the Chao Phraya River towards the Grand Palace and Wat Arun. On the day of the actual event, the ceremony usually commences in the afternoon (around 3:30 PM) and the barges take approximately 45 minutes to complete the route.
The public can attend the rehearsal or main event. If you’d just like to take photographs or enjoy the atmosphere of this unique event, the dress rehearsal is a good option. For the main event attended by the King, there are stricter protocols in place for photography and viewing areas can get crowded. The public is asked to respect any advice or requests from stewards and security staff. With extra security in place (especially for the main ceremony) the bags may be searched and you may also be asked to show your passport or ID. Thai people are legally obliged to carry their ID cards with them.
Even if you are attending a rehearsal and watching from one of the official viewing areas, you should dress politely and cover your knees and shoulders. Thai people in attendance may wear a yellow top in honour of the King because he was born on a Monday and his birth colour is yellow. The King’s royal standard is yellow for this reason.
Transport disruption
On the day of the Royal Barge Procession, there are restrictions on the Chao Phraya River with the usual boat and ferry services temporarily suspended. Some road bridges over the river are also closed. This can also happen on the dates for the dress rehearsals which can impact traffic in other parts of the city.
There are usually viewing areas on both banks of the Chao Phraya River which are open to the public. However, capacity is limited and they can fill up quickly. For previous events, the viewing areas included:
- Under Rama VIII Bridge (Thonburi side)
- Santichai Prakan Park
- Chaloem Phra Kiat Public Park
- Siriraj Hospital
- Thammasat University
- Nagaraphirom Park
2024 Royal Barge Procession
The next Royal Barge Procession is scheduled for 27 October 2024. There will also be regular rehearsals in the lead-up to the main event. Rehearsals are scheduled for the afternoon between 3-6 PM.
Rehearsal dates for the 2024 Royal Barge Procession:
- August dates: 1, 8, 15, 22
- September dates: 3, 12, 19, 26
- October dates: 1, 10, 15*, 22* (*Full-dress rehearsals on 15 and 22)
