After visiting the San Guillermo Parish in Bacolor, we headed next to Guagua, Pampanga. Among all the churches in our itinerary for this pilgrimage, this is where I was most excited about. The first time I saw the image of Betis Church on a Facebook post highlighting its magnificent trompe l’oeil ceiling, i had to place it on my bucket list right away. Santiago Apostol Parish Church or more commonly known as Betis Church was established in 1607. It was also declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum in 2001.
Betis was originally an independent settlement long before the arrival of the Spaniards in the Philippines. It was named after the Guadalquivir River (Rio Betis) in Spain, indicating that Spanish colonizers saw similarities between the area and their homeland. The town was founded by Augustinian Priest Fray Fernando Pinto. It was a flourishing community situated along the banks of the Betis River, which made it ideal for agriculture, fishing, and trade.
In 1607, the Parish Church of St. James the Apostle (also known as Betis Church) was established, making Betis one of the oldest parishes in Pampanga. Fray Mateo Peralta was listed as its first parish priest. However, it was Father José de la Cruz who initiated the building of the church. The initial structure was made of light materials, mainly wood and stucco. Fire broke out within the church several times due to these light materials, so it was finally rebuilt with concrete in 1770.
In the last quarter of the 19th century, Father Manuel Camañes dug an artesian well on the north side of the church, giving a source of potable water to the people of Betis and nearby towns. The present-day concrete fence with caryatids was built in the earlier half of the 20th century.
During this period, Betis was an independent town with its own governance and thriving local industries such as woodcarving and furniture making. It became especially known for producing skilled artisans, particularly in woodcraft and ecclesiastical art—a tradition that continues today.
In 1904, during the American colonial period, Betis lost its status as an independent municipality and was annexed as a barangay of Guagua. This event took place during the time where most towns are being consolidated. The consolidation of towns during the American period in the Philippines refers to a policy of reducing the number of municipalities by merging smaller or less viable towns into larger ones. This was done to streamline governance, reduce administrative costs, and make local government more efficient under American colonial rule.
Beautification of the interior was extensively done in 1939 by Father Santiago Blanco, the last Spanish priest of the church. The ceiling of the nave was painted by the famous Anac Baculud, a relative of Juan Crisostomo Soto, by the name of Isidoro C. Soto, who was mentored by Dr. Sijuco. Isidoro, nicknamed Doro Soto, himself painted the ceiling itself.
The style of Betis Church reflects a combination of Baroque and Neo-Classical architectural styles, adapted to local Filipino-Spanish aesthetics. It features massive adobe and stone walls that speak to the church’s age and durability. A central arched main entrance is flanked by pilasters (flat columns) that divide the façade into three vertical sections.
The upper part of the façade includes a niche with a statue of St. Augustine.
On the right side of the church façade stands a separate but connected octagonal bell tower, made of adobe.
Several statues can be found outside the church. One of which is the statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus in front.
The other entrance of Betis Church. This one was a rose window on its upper part but instead of stained glass, it is made of Capiz shells.
Just few walks from the Artesian Well, you’ll find a statue of Saint James, particularly its representation as Saint James Matamoros or the Moor Slayer.
You’ll find the same depiction as bas reliefs in the main entrance of Fort Santiago in Intramuros ( See: Fort Santiago )and the facade of Paete Church in Laguna (See: Saint James the Apostle Parish/ Paete Church)
The interior of the Betis Church is widely regarded as one of the most breathtaking in the Philippines, earning it the nickname “The Sistine Chapel of the Philippines”. Its interior design is a masterpiece of Baroque and Rococo art, blended with Filipino craftsmanship, especially in woodcarving and ceiling painting.
The most striking feature is the ceiling, fully covered in elaborate trompe l’oeil paintings—a technique that creates an illusion of three-dimensionality. The painting depicts various scenes from the Bible, saints, and more. The artworks of the interior were extensively done in 1939 under the last Spanish friar who served as parish priest, Fr. Santiago Blanco, OSA. Native painter Macario Ligón was later commissioned to paint the ceiling of the church. Later in the 1970s, Ligón’s assistant and nephew Victor Ramos restored 80 percent of the ceiling and mural paintings.
Victor Ramos y Gozum (1922–1986) repainted almost 80% of the ceiling and mural paintings in the interior of the Betis church which most contemporary writers mistook for Simon Flores originals. Ramos and Daning Henson from San Fernando Pampanga and a certain Mr. Pangilinan reworked the ceiling paintings in the early 1980’s, commissioned by the Betis Fiesta Committee under Tatang Emias Roque. It was a flagship project for the town which was then headed by former Guagua Mayor Atty. Manuel Santiago. Based on Macario Ligón-originals (Ligón was an uncle and teacher of Ramos in painting), repainting was done due to the decaying panels infested by termites and to avoid a more devastating effect on other parts of the church’s ceiling.
The dome area features murals depicting images of angels, clouds, and other notable Biblical events. It also creates the illusion of a three-dimensional dome opening up into the heavens.
This approach is consistent with Baroque artistic traditions, especially in churches where a physical dome was structurally impractical.
The main altar of Betis Church is equally stunning. It is built in the Baroque-Rococo style and is a multi-tiered, gold-leafed wooden structure.
The first layer of the altar features a single niche that enshrines the image of Our Lady surrounded by angels. The second tier has five niches with the image of Saint Joseph and the child Jesus on the center. It is accompanied by four Augustinian Saints. The lower tier has 7 niches with Saint James the Apostle in the center along with few more Augustinian Saints with Saint Paul and Saint Peter.
San Nicholas de Tolentino, Saint Augustine, Saint Peter
Austinian Saints
There’s also an image of God the Father and the Holy Spirit on top of the grand retablo
One of the Side altars enshrines the image of Virgel de la Correa
The image of the Virgen de la Correa is one of two precious images of Betis church, the other, being the ivory figure of its titular patron, Santiago Apostol (St. James).
The other side altar features images like the La Pieta, Saint Therese, Saint Anthony of Padua among others.
You can also spot a pulpit on the side of the church
There’s also a bamboo pipe organ
The main entrance door features some heavy details. The carvings portray the “Gates of Paradise”.
Choir loft area.
A small side chapel with intricately detailed and ornate altar with image depicting the Baptism of the Lord
Betis Church is definitely not just a place of worship but a living museum of Pampanga’s cultural soul. The church’s old refectory was also converted into a mini-museum. However, we were not able to visit it that time.
This Post is part of my Pampanga Pilgrimage series. Feel free to revisit my previous articles here
