Have you visited the famous Nakayima Tree?
As regular readers know, I frequently travel between Kampala and Fort Portal to my home in Kibale Forest in western Uganda. Being on the bus, or sharing a ride with friends, means I have to stick to their route, making spontaneous detours a bit difficult… until last week!
I drove upcountry with my friend Andrew Roberts, cartographer and co-author of the Bradt Uganda Guide. We chatted tourism non-stop for a few hours (as we do!) – the traditional site of Tanda Pits – spooky! A place to commune with the ancestors – but worth a visit; and the Nakayima Tree, tantalisingly close to Mubende (yet somewhere I still hadn’t been in person). I told Andy I had always wanted to see this centuries-old tree.
The journey was going well until Mityana when the car engine suddenly stopped. Andy got it started again, but we were grateful to reach one of the bigger petrol stations at Mubende. As I sat in the car (munching the obligatory chicken muchomo and gonja), the mechanics dug around under the hood, and Andy poked his head in the window:
“They’re going to be another half hour here. Jump on a boda. Today’s your day to go see the Nakayima Tree!”
YES!
A few minutes’ drive through the back roads of Mubende, and the road winds uphill through rocky cliffs. Here, there are few people or houses, only open spaces and conifer plantations. It’s like a different world! Mubende, a long way below me now, seemed tiny.
Ten minutes later, and there it was: the Nakayima Tree, the sacred tree that I’ve been wanting to visit for years.
What or who is Nakayima?
Mubende Hill, one of the region’s highest points, was once a centre of power for the Bachwezi, the semi-divine dynasty who ruled much of the Great Lakes region before the rise of the Bantu kingdoms.
Nakayima is not the species of the tree but the name of a Princess who was the wife of King Ndahura, a prominent Bachwezi king. She is believed to have disappeared into the tree to become a part of the spirit world. Nakayima’s spirit is believed to inhabit the tree to this day.
The site of the Nakayima Tree is one of Uganda’s most important cultural heritage sites. The tree is visited today by people seeking blessings, healing, or spiritual connection.
Fenced off in 2024 (after an old branch fell on unlucky pilgrims), the tree is said to be over 1000 years old: 1,150 years old, according to my guide James (but a mere 650 years old according to other sources).
The Nakayima Tree’s tall buttress roots fan outward like natural walls, delineating distinct “rooms.” (I raised a quizzical eyebrow when my guide said the tree had one hundred such rooms). Here, pilgrims quietly place offerings — such as milk in calabashes — at the base of the roots, seeking blessings, or guidance.
Keen to convey a sense of mystery, my guide whispered “We cannot even say what species of tree it is….”
The site is simple and uncluttered, and (there is little of the litter you see in so many public places). It’s refreshingly uncommercial. On a Saturday afternoon in April, there were just a few dozen pilgrims, quietly contemplating. It was very peaceful.
Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu travel blog and podcast
How can I find the Nakayima Tree?
- The tree stands on Mubende Hill (or Boma Hill), about 4 km north of Mubende town, approximately halfway between Kampala and Fort Portal. Here’s my review on Google Maps.
- I paid 10k Uganda shillings for entry and a guided tour. I can’t confirm that is the official price (only that is what I was charged!)
- It’s worth having a guide for the historical background and interpretation of everything around you.
- If driving upcountry, it’s a pleasant place to stop and stretch your legs. If you visit, be respectful: most people are here for spiritual reasons.
- The Nakayima Tree site is a low-key affair: two small shops sell sodas and snacks, but if you’re coming for a picnic or longer, you may want to pick up something in Mubende town.
A familiar face and a fun fan moment for Diary of a Muzungu
You never know who you will bump into on a road trip around Uganda! As I posed for photos in front of the Nakayima Tree, I was happy to hear someone calling “Madam Nagawa, is that you?” I last bumped into Blackfire De Lion (pictured) on the River Nile at Jinja.
A big thanks to the person who taught me how to write travel guides that sell – Miss Charlotte Beauvoisin.
Thank you Blackfire for your photos and the kind words — and for reminding me why I love what I do!
Have you visited the Nakayima Tree?
How was the experience (as a pilgrim, tourist, or simply a curious traveler like me)?
What else did the guide reveal to me about the Nakayima Tree? Sign up to my email newsletter to hear about future podcast episodes!
