While the nomadic culture of Mongolia is widely known, few have experienced the authentic lifestyle of a true nomad (and I’m not referring to modern digital nomads). As part of a photography tour to Mongolia, I had the opportunity to witness the Golden Eagle Festival firsthand. However, the real cultural immersion came after the festival when we enjoyed a homestay with a nomadic Kazakh family who are also eagle hunters. This experience provided insight into the daily lives of the Kazakhs, their deep-rooted traditions, and the intricate relationship they share with their golden eagles. It was a rare glimpse into a way of life that has endured for centuries, offering an understanding of their customs, challenges, and the delicate balance they maintain with nature and their hunting companions.
We arrived in the evening after a couple of hours of driving through the darkness, our driver expertly navigating by instinct and his intimate knowledge of the land. Upon our arrival, we were warmly greeted by our hosts and treated to a traditional Kazakh welcome meal of “qoy basy”, a special feast typically reserved for important occasions.
After the dinner which was followed by finishing off a large bottle of Mongolian vodka, we were ready to turn in for the night and were shown to our ger.
Being nomadic meant that there aren’t any of the creature comforts of urban living that we are so used to. No baths that night since there is no running water. We had to rely on extra batteries and power banks if we wanted to use our cameras and phones since there is no electricity. If we needed to answer the call of nature our guides had set up a field toilet outside which is a small open top tent around a hole in the ground. Our ger while cozy, had no heating except for a central coal burning stove and chimney which burnt out in the middle of the freezing night. But, ironically there was 4G phone reception since we were within range of a small town’s cellular tower.
The farm is actually the family’s winter abode. In the summer they spend their time up in the mountains with their animals where there is ample pasture for grazing. But with winter coming, they have moved down into the valley with their animals where their farm is located. This particular family were also eagle hunters and they gave us the opportunity to get up close with their eagles, as well as, a personal photo shoot.
So how do you train an eagle to hunt for you? They are usually captured from their nest when young (1-4 years old). Female golden eagles are preferred as they grow larger than the males and are considered fiercer and hence better hunters. The hunter then spends time bonding with the eagle and training it to hunt. This involves acclimatizing the eagle to human presence and the hunter’s voice, training it how to perch on the hunter’s arm, responding to calls from the hunter and catching prey under controlled conditions. Later when the eagle is proficient, they are trained to catch larger prey like hares and foxes. According to our host, eagles can even hunt large prey like wolves but they need at least 3 eagles to take down a wolf. It takes 3 to 4 years to train an eagle to be a proficient hunter. Hunters treat their eagles well, since if they ill treat it, the eagle will fly away and never come back. After 6 to 7 years of service with the hunter, the eagle is released back into the wild to replenish the wild population.
Our October visit coincided with the crucial period when eagles are being conditioned and trained for the upcoming hunting season. Peak hunting season occurs in winter from December to February. Temperatures drop to -30°C or lower and snow blankets the ground in white, making it easier for the eagles with their keen eye sight to spot prey like hares, marmots and foxes. Modern regulations clash with tradition as our host explains that the eagle hunters now need to get permits to hunt due to conservation efforts to preserve the wild animal population.
Before long, it was time to bid farewell to our gracious host and his extended family. After enjoying a hearty and delicious lunch of fried wheat noodles paired with savory minced mutton, we set off on our journey back to Khovd. However, there was no actual road to guide us; we were deep in the heart of the steppes. Our ride back to civilization was as nomadic as it could get, navigating through the vast, open landscape with only the natural terrain to lead the way.
After 3 hours of off road driving through the steppes, climbing mountain passes through snowfields, passing by yaks, horses, camels and crossing a river, we finally made it to the highway leading to Khovd. This adventure truly encapsulated the essence of nomadic life, reminding us of the freedom and unpredictability that comes with traveling through such breathtaking wilderness.
