If you’re visiting Croatia’s coast, you shouldn’t miss the chance for a day trip to one of the islands – when we were in Split, that meant Hvar, but while you’ve got several choices for a day trip from Dubrovnik, I couldn’t resist a day on Lokrum with kids.
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So why choose a visit to Lokrum island with kids over a cruise to the Elaphiti Islands (which were on my wishlist too)? Partly just how easy it is, a 10-minute boat ride from the Old Port and the chance to follow our own schedule, plus the fact you can spot wild peacocks, discover a monkish curse, a link with royalty and swim in the Dead Sea.
Tempted? You should be. This was one of the most relaxing parts of our trip, not just for getting out on the water, but because the whole island feels so deliciously laid back – perfect if your family is looking for a break from the crowds in Dubrovnik. Here’s how to fill your day on Lokrum with kids.
Spot the peacocks (and bunnies)
As a nature reserve, it’s no surprise that you’ll see plenty of wildlife here – there are wild rabbits on the islands, although sadly they were all tucked up in their burrows when we visited, so you might have better luck if you venture to quieter areas or visit when it’s less hot.
However, we saw too many peacocks and peahens to count, including one peacock sliding down the hillside to strut by the water at the Dead Sea (read on for more about that).
You’ll probably see your first one almost as soon as you’re off the ferry, and while they’re wild animals, chances are some of them will approach you – one peahen seemed to take a liking to our neighbour’s towel on the beach, and apparently wanted to claim it for her own. No-one was quite sure why!
The cutest thing was seeing peachicks with their mothers, tiny and fluffy hiding under her wings. One peahen even managed to have five tucked away as she strutted along.
As well as the wild peacocks and shy bunnies, we saw lizards and countless smaller birds hopping through the undergrowth. If you’re very lucky, you could even spot a Hermann’s tortoise
Swim in the Dead Sea
One of my favourite things to do on Lokrum with kids is to take a dip in Mrtvo More, aka the Dead Sea – don’t expect the same kind of salinity as its better-known namesake, where you can float with no effort, but his little saltwater lake is a great spot for a dip.
There’s some shade on the pebbly beach as well as in the water, and while the water is cool (especially at first!), it was lovely and refreshing in the May sunshine, with some warmer patches as you swam out to the sunny bit.
It’s well worth bringing water shoes as it’s very pebbly until you get a little way out, or be prepared to leave sandals/flip flops on the shore, hobble out a little way and then swim as soon as you can lie flat. You can buy water shoes by the port (at the same place selling ice creams), but it’s cheaper to bring your own.
We were warned to look out for sea urchins but didn’t see any around this area. You can also swim at the fabulously named Hidden Cove (not that hidden if you’ve got Google Maps), as well as Lokrum Main Beach by the rocks and a couple of other beaches further north (both handily known as Lokrum beach).
Incidentally, the beach in the south-east, called FKK Rocks, is a nudist beach.
Walk by the rocks
Not far from the Dead Sea, you can get down to the water on Lokrum rocks – a bit flat rocky area just a little way down from the island proper, with several little coves where you can sunbathe.
Fun for kids to wander over, you’ll also find people sunbathing here, as well as ladders down into the sea itself for anyone who wants a more energetic swim than in the Dead Sea.
Explore the ruins of the monastery
One of the first buildings you’ll come across as you explore – or the remains of buildings at least – the monastery was originally built in the early 11th century. The story tells that a great fire broke out in Dubrovnik in 1023, with the city’s inhabitants vowing to build a monastery if the city was spared.
Most of the ruins you can see today are from later buildings, mostly 15th and 16th century, with the monastery also damaged during the 1667 earthquake which hit Dubrovnik.
Today, it’s very atmospheric to wander through; you’ll see soaring arches from rooms which no longer exist, the shape of other rooms picked out on the floor, and you’ll wander through what was once the cloisters.
DID YOU KNOW? The island of Lokrum has its very own curse, set by the monks who once lived here – in the early 19th century, a French army general ordered the monastery closed and the monks expelled. It’s said that on their final night on the island, they walked three times around the island, holding their candles upside down to leave a trail of wax, chanting ‘Whosoever claims Lokrum for his own personal pleasure shall be damned’.
At first, people weren’t put off – but a trail of death and financial disaster has followed anyone who owned it. The legend says the curse will only be lifted when every last drop of wax is picked up. Today it’s owned by the Republic of Croatia, rather than any individual, and the pleasure is shared with everyone who visits…
Sit on the Iron Throne
Like many places elsewhere in Dubrovnik and Croatia, you’ll find filming locations for Game of Thrones on the island, including in the monastery ruins which doubled as Qarth.
And there’s now a little exhibition about filming, plus some photos of the various locations, within one of the intact rooms from the old monastery.
There are a few of the other Lokrum legends mentioned too if your kids have no idea about Game of Thrones, but you don’t need to be a fan to want to pose on the Iron Throne. Be ready to queue but in May it all moved quite quickly, and everyone was considerate when it came to taking photos and letting others have their turn.
Walk through the botanic gardens
Created by Austrian Archduke Maximilian I in 1858, the botanic gardens are like a separately little exotic world inside the island.
Packed with trees including eucalyptus, as well as flowers and cacti, it’s lovely to wander through, especially in late spring/early summer when the flowers are blooming and scenting the air.
There are information boards dotted around as well if you’re keen to learn more about what you’re seeing or you can just stroll along the winding paths as you explore.
Find some of the landmarks
There are various landmarks dotted around the island, helpful if your kids like to have a goal when you’re walking.
These range from Charlotte’s well, not far from the Dead Sea, to Fort Royal, around 45 minutes’ walk from the ferry port at Portoc in the north of the island, and the Lazaret, a 17th century quarantine station slightly further north – walk up the Path of Paradise to get there.
The fort is the biggest landmark; built by the French when Napoleon’s forces briefly occupied Dubrovnik and the surrounding area, it stands on the highest point with some fantastic views down over the island and back to the city. Best attempted early in the day or later in the afternoon!
Hear the story of Richard the Lionheart
There’s an unexpected link to one of England’s Plantagenet kings on Lokrum too – it’s said that Richard the Lionheart was caught in a storm on the Adriatic Sea, while travelling home from the Third Crusade.
Fearing for his life, he vowed to build two churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary if he was saved – one on the first place that he stepped on land, the other back in England. Escaping death, he was shipwrecked on Lokrum and set about fulfilling the first part of his vow.
Hearing that royalty was on the island, a delegation of Dubrovnik’s leading citizens were sent to Lokrum to invite him into the city and persuaded him to fund a church in Dubrovnik instead, if they built a smaller church on Lokrum. Both kept their side of the bargain with Richard leaving behind a small fortune which helped build of Dubrovnik’s cathedral, while you can also see the small Church of the Annunciation on the island.
Lokrum with kids: need to know
As Lokrum is a protected natural reserve, you’ll find very limited development on the island – but if you’re planning a day on Lokrum with kids, you’ll be glad to know there are a few facilities to make your trip easier.
What facilities are there?
There are some toilets on the island, at the port and around the restaurants/cafes, with several places to get food – some are fancier, some are places just to grab snacks and an ice cream.
Lacroma Snack Bar is one of the closest to the ferry dock, or for drinks (and ice cream), Lake Cocktail Bar near the Dead Sea is a good option. Alternatively, if you want a proper meal, Lacroma Restaurant and Rajski Vrt (Eden Garden) restaurant are both close to the monastery ruins, although you’ll find price tags to match.
We were told cards may not be accepted and to take cash, but had no problem using a card to buy an ice cream – there’s nowhere to get cash on the island, so it’s a good plan to have some with you just in case.
There are also plenty of places to eat a picnic, including picnic tables in the shade, so you can bring your own food and drink – just made sure to dispose of all your rubbish (or take it home), and don’t feed the peacocks, who are very fond of trying to peck up any crumbs. The Olive Grove is a lovely shady spot.
There’s also a small playground and a little football pitch next to it if your kids have energy to burn – bring your own ball if you want a kick around though.
You’ll also find a small tourist information office near the port, which sells maps, although there are also bigger maps dotted around the island with key points of information, so I just took a photo of those and navigated by it.
What you won’t find is anywhere to stay – it’s illegal to stay overnight on Lokrum (and the last ferry leaves at 7pm).
How long to spend on Lokrum with kids
Allow at least two hours – even if you don’t explore the whole island, you’ll need time to wander past a few of the main spots as well as time to chill out by the water or under a shady tree.
There’s something in the air which makes you want to slow down, so don’t expect to rush around, and you can relax on the little beaches for as long as you want.
If you want to discover every corner of Lokrum Island with kids, you’ll need longer, especially if you’re walking up to the fort or planning to visit Lokrum beach in the north.
We spent around three hours, which felt long enough to explore a few of the key areas and have chance for a swim, but it was then too hot to want to do any more walking.
What does it cost
There’s a fee to enter the protected reserve but your return boat fare includes the cost of visiting the island – currently, it’s 30 Euros for adults, 5 Euros for kids.
There are no fees to do anything on the island, unless you’re buying food/drinks/snacks so once you’ve arrived, it’s all free!
How to get to Lokrum Island with kids
The ferries run from the old harbour in Dubrovnik – the Ploce Gate is the closest and you need the longer pier (by Pokliskar restaurant).
There’s a booth where you can get tickets near where the wooden ferries depart, or look out for the QR code to scan on the wall nearby to buy tickets online so you can skip the queue, which is a good idea as it can be a bit frantic at the ticket counter.
Boats run daily from April to November. Timings seemed a bit tricky to find out with some of the information online being out of date and nothing displayed around the port, so it’s worth doublechecking if you’re visiting outside peak season.
In the end we did find a summer timetable for boats to Lokrum – in May/June, the ferry was running every 30 minutes (on the hour and half hour departing Dubrovnik and at quarter past and quarter to from Lokrum). The ferry journey itself only takes about 10 minutes to reach the island and there are some lovely views on the way.
If you’re feeling more energetic, you can kayak to the island – keep in mind that even the shortest route between the city and the island is a few kilometres, so it will take some paddling to get there (and can be choppy).
You’ll need to hire kayaks for the whole day, and pay the entrance fee on arrival – best for families with older kids, who have some sea kayaking experience! There are various kayaking tours from Dubrovnik, although most will only paddle past Lokrum rather than stop.
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Main image courtesy of Depositphotos, all other photos copyright MummyTravels
