As an Italian, I’ve been to Rome countless times—on school trips, weekend getaways, even just passing through—but I had never approached it on foot, as a pilgrim. For years, I’ve been fascinated by Italy’s ancient pilgrimage routes. They whisper of history, faith, and the timeless rhythm of walking. This spring, I finally experienced three remarkable sections that all lead—spiritually and literally—towards the Eternal City. Each route offered something unique: forests and forgotten shrines, medieval villages, and solitary paths wrapped in birdsong and silence.
Here’s a taste of three very different ways to walk into Rome: the Via Francigena del Nord, the Via di San Francesco, and the Via Francigena del Sud.
1. Via Francigena del Sud: Following the Southern Pilgrim Trail
My walk began in Castel Gandolfo, one of the most picturesque towns in the Castelli Romani and a former papal summer residence perched above Lake Albano. I arrived in the afternoon from Rome, met my walking group, and explored the town’s charming center, stopping in Piazza della Libertà to admire the Palazzo Pontificio and Bernini-designed church of San Tommaso. Sunset views over the lake is something special, especially this time of the year.
After a delicious dinner at Arte e Vino—a local favorite in Castel Gandolfo with artistic interiors and underground cellars—we stayed at Hotel Castel Vecchio. In the morning, we set off with guides from the Gruppo dei Dodici to walk toward Velletri.
We passed through Albano Laziale and into the forests of the Colli Albani, where centuries-old “turtle-back” Roman paving stones still support the path. These ancient stones shift naturally with tree roots, allowing the trail to endure without damage—a simple yet brilliant engineering feat.
We continued to Nemi, a colorful village famous for its wild strawberries and views of Lake Nemi. After tasting strawberry tarts in a local bakery, we wandered through the flower-lined alleys to Palazzo Ruspoli.
The day ended in Velletri, with a wine tasting at Colle di Maggio and a visit to the Cathedral of San Clemente: standing before its Romanesque bell tower, we felt the weight of history and the calm that comes from walking a route taken by pilgrims for centuries.
2. Via di San Francesco
After completing a beautiful stretch of the Via Francigena del Sud, we laced up our boots once again—this time to walk a portion of the Via di San Francesco, a route that starts in Monterotondo, just north of Rome, and winds its way to Piazza San Pietro, deep in the heart of the Eternal City.
This path surprised me: it blends nature, modern culture, and sacred history in a way few walks do. The route can be tackled in a single day or broken into shorter stages. The key stops from Monterotondo to Rome include: Monterotondo – Riserva Naturale della Marcigliana – Conca d’Oro – Auditorium Parco della Musica – MAXXI Museum – Ponte della Musica – Lungotevere – St. Peter’s Square. You pass through residential areas, vibrant cultural hubs, scenic riverside stretches, and places steeped in spiritual resonance.
The Via di San Francesco is part of a much longer pilgrimage route connecting La Verna, Assisi, and Greccio to Rome. It retraces the journey of Saint Francis, who in 1209 walked to Rome to ask the Pope’s blessing for his newly written Rule—a moment that would shape Christian history in profound ways.
This Roman section offers a deeply spiritual yet urban walking experience—perfect for those short on time but seeking meaningful connection. Along the way, we admired contemporary architecture at the MAXXI, crossed the Ponte della Musica toward the Tiber River, and followed its banks until the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica appeared in the distance—our final, glorious destination.
3. Via Francigena del Nord
The Via Francigena del Nord marks the final leg of the ancient pilgrim route that begins in Canterbury and crosses Europe—through Switzerland, the Aosta Valley, Piedmont, and Tuscany—before entering Lazio and approaching the Eternal City. It’s a path that blends centuries of history with quiet, natural beauty.
This final section officially starts in Campagnano di Roma, a peaceful town nestled in the Roman countryside. From here, the trail winds through rolling hills, natural parks, and historic villages, gradually leading toward the urban skyline of Rome.
I walked this route with the same group of friends who had joined me on the Via Francigena del Sud and the Via di San Francesco. Together, we began our journey at the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata, a protected area just north of the city. Although it’s only a 4 km stretch, it felt like stepping back in time—far removed from the chaos of modern Rome.
The Insugherata Reserve is a hidden gem: lush, green, and unexpectedly wild for a place so close to the city. Ancient cork oaks (which give the area its name), as well as holm oaks and chestnuts, create a rich canopy. The trail follows streams and quiet woodland paths, a peaceful contrast to the nearby Via Cassia, which we gradually left behind.
From there, we followed the scenic Monte Mario – Monte Ciocci variant, considered one of the most beautiful viewpoints along the entire Francigena. Standing on Monte Mario, we watched Rome unfold below us—the dome of St. Peter’s shining in the distance. At Monte Ciocci, benches invited us to pause and soak in the view. It’s the perfect place to reflect on the journey before entering the heart of the city.
This stretch isn’t difficult—mostly flat with a few short climbs—making it a great option for those seeking a gentle, reflective walk into Rome. It’s ideal for a long weekend and offers a perfect introduction to Italy’s pilgrimage routes. Whether you’re new to walking paths or looking to complete the last piece of a longer journey, the Via Francigena del Nord delivers history, scenery, and soul—all within reach of the capital.
Why Walk to Rome?
Each of these routes offers a different lens on Italy. They aren’t just about reaching Rome—they’re about earning your arrival. They take you through forgotten villages, regional cuisines, and encounters with locals who often ask with surprise, “You’re walking to Rome?”
In a world obsessed with speed and convenience, walking to Rome feels like a return to something essential: it’s slow, personal, and deeply enriching. Whether you choose the green paths of the North, the mystical forests of the Franciscan way, or the ancient stones of the South, you’ll arrive in Rome changed—body, mind, and soul.
Tips for Planning Your Pilgrimage to Rome
- Pick the route that fits your timeframe and energy: The Via di San Francesco is great for a one-day urban pilgrimage, while the Via Francigena del Nord and del Sud offer longer, more immersive walks.
- Use a GPX app or printed maps: Waymarking is generally good, but a navigation tool like Komoot or AllTrails helps avoid wrong turns—especially in rural or urban transition zones.
- Travel light, but be prepared: Comfortable shoes, a water bottle, sun protection, and a light waterproof layer are essentials. Even short sections can involve surprising terrain.
- Book accommodations in advance, especially in smaller towns along the Via Francigena del Sud or del Nord where lodging may be limited.
- Connect with local walking groups or pilgrim associations: Organizations like Gruppo dei Dodici often lead group walks and can offer logistical support or route advice.
- Allow time to pause: Whether it’s for a village bakery, a quiet church, or a panoramic bench—these moments are what make the journey truly memorable.
Lived in England since 1998 and travelled the world since 2005, visiting over 100 countries on 5 continents. Writer, blogger, photographer with a passion for adventure and travel, discovering those off beat places not yet on the tourist trail. Marco contributes the very best in independent travel tips and lifestyle articles.
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