Ho Chi Minh City Revisited – Beyond the Little Red Dot


My first visit to Ho Chi Minh City was in 2010 on a short weekend trip. It was a whirlwind experience rushing from one sight to another trying to take in as much as I could. In December of 2024, I had the opportunity to visit the city again at a more leisurely pace. This time I was more selective on what to see and not revisit places that I’ve already covered in my first trip. At the same time, I was also amazed by how much the city has developed over the last 14 years when I was away. Modern skyscrapers jostle alongside colonial architecture, and a new metro line had just started operating a few days ago.

Ho Chi Minh City is better known by its old name of Saigon. The name is believed to be derived from the old Khmer language “Prey Nokor,” meaning “forest city” or “city of kapok trees”. As Vietnamese settlers moved into the area during the 17th century, they began using the name  “Sài Gòn” which is the Vietnamese adaptation of the Khmer name. Saigon became widely used in the 18th century and was officially adopted by French colonizers. In 1975 after the North Vietnamese captured Saigon and ended the Vietnam War, the city was renamed as Ho Chi Minh City in honour of their revolutionary leader.

Ho Chi Minh City is divided into 22 districts, with District 1 being the central business district and where many of the city’s attractions and nightlife can be found. District 5 is where you will find Chinatown, and District 2 is a new town development area where you will find many upscale condominiums.

Places to Visit

Saigon Notre Dame Cathedral

This is perhaps one of the more well known sights in the city with its neo-Romanesque architecture. Built by French colonists in the 19th century, it was completed in 1880. All the materials used to build the cathedral were imported from France including unique red bricks from Toulouse that form the outer wall of the cathedral.

The photo on the left was taken in 2010 and shows how the cathedral looks like. The photo on the right is from 2024 and due to restoration works, the whole building is covered up and visitors are not allowed to enter the cathedral. The restoration works are expected to be completed in 2027.

Saigon Central Post Office

Right next to the cathedral is the iconic Saigon Central Post Office. Constructed between 1886-1891 with Gothic, French and Renaissance influences, the building’s exterior features a distinctive yellow facade with arched windows, ornate details, and a large clock at the entrance. Inside, visitors are greeted by a spacious hall with high vaulted ceilings, elegant iron supports, and wooden counters that harken back to its colonial origins. Despite it being a tourist attraction, its still a working post office and many tourists take the chance to send a postcard to their family back home for an unique experience.

The facade of the post office hasn’t changed. However, the interior is now even more crowded than I remembered from my last trip. Here is a photo of the inside from 2010 where it was much more peaceful. Right now the interior is filled with souvenir booths and packed with visitors.

A vendor outside the post office selling paper art that folds out when you open the card.

Book Street

Right beside the Post Office is Nguyen Van Binh Book Street. So named because of the numerous bookshops along the sides of this short street. There are also several cafes in between the book shops. This tree lined street is a quiet respite from the crowds around the area.

Book Street on a hot afternoon. Its a pleasant and quiet street to relax while browsing books and the large trees provide lots of shade.
Although most of the books are in Vietnamese language, there are some shops selling English and French language books.
There are also a couple of art galleries.
A cafe with a library theme, though every customer was more engrossed in their smartphones than reading books.

War Remnants Museum

If you are interested in the history of the Vietnam War, then the War Remnants Museum is the place for you. The Vietnam War is told from the viewpoint of the North Vietnamese and the Americans are the bad guys. I decided to skip this place on my recent visit, so here are pictures from my last visit.

The War Remnants Museum is one of the most popular museums in Vietnam for Western tourists.
Several military vehicles and planes are displayed in the museum’s open areas.

Reunification Palace

A short walk away from the War Remnants Museum is the Reunification Palace which was the presidential palace of South Vietnam before its fall to the communist forces in 1975. Tanks smashed through the gates of the palace marking the fall of Saigon and this scene has been captured in historical photographs.

I skipped this place too and here is a picture from 2010. Again, as a historical building, nothing as changed.

City Hall and Saigon Opera House

Ho Chi Minh City Hall, is a stunning example of French colonial architecture, and offers a breathtaking visual experience despite being closed to the public. Built between 1898 and 1909, the building is a near-replica of the Paris City Hall, featuring a Neo-Baroque style with Renaissance influences. At night, the building is spectacularly illuminated, creating a mesmerizing view along Nguyen Hue Street. Similarly, the nearby Saigon Opera House, designed by Eugene Ferret in 1898, mirrors the Petit Palais in Paris, with its elegant facade showcasing intricate stone-carved ornaments and imported French materials that capture the architectural grandeur of the French colonial era.

Ho Chi Minh City Hall on the left, and the Saigon Opera House on the right.

Ben Thanh Market

This is perhaps the most famous market in Ho Chi Minh City with more than 1,500 stalls selling wholesale and retail from food to clothing and souvenirs. Its visited by both locals and tourists alike. The market has 4 main entrances with the main entrance under its iconic clock tower. I guess this is one of the places where everyone comes to buy something to bring home.

Here is a picture from 2010 on the left and a new picture from 2024. I would say nothing has changed much except for the additional lights hanging from the ceiling.

Bitexco Financial Tower

If you want to see Ho Chi Minh City from high up then a visit to the Sky Deck at the 49th floor of Bitexco Financial Tower is the way to go. This building was under construction during my previous visit, so this was something new to me. The Sky Deck offers a 360° view of the city and the Saigon River.

Bitexco Financial Tower is a short walk from Ben Thanh Market. The best time to take in the views is probably sunset. You can watch the sun set and the city lights coming on after that.
From the Sky Deck of Bitexco Financial Tower, you can see Landmark 81 which is the tallest building in Vietnam. This is located in District 2.

All these places that I’ve described above are located in District 1, making it really easy to cover them in a day since they are all within walking distance or a short ride in a taxi or Grab.

Some Notable Sights

Visit a Koi Cafe

There are several themed cafes in Ho Chi Minh City and one of these are the Koi Cafes where patrons sit in sunken seating areas in a pond while koi fish swim just beside them. I visited one called the Oasis Cafe which seems to be popular with tourists and locals. Its located near the airport in District 10 and was reachable by taking a Grab ride.

Have a meal while koi fish swim beside you. Fish food is also available to feed the koi.
This cafe was really big despite its rather hidden entrance in an alleyway. Its attention to nature really made this a refreshing place to relax.

Chinatown

The Chinatown of Ho Chi Minh City is located in District 5 and is one of the world’s largest Chinatowns. Also called “Cho Lon” which translates to Big Market, it dates back to the 18th century when Chinese immigrants fleeing political turmoil established themselves here. There are many street markets, temples and clan assembly halls here to visit.

Indulging myself in one of the street markets in Chinatown.
One of the street vendors selling incense and prayer offerings.
A super friendly coffee stall owner who poses for street photographers. You can see the printed photos of him in the background.
I also stopped at one of the temples in Chinatown for a short visit.
The lady selling incense was deep in thought.
The temple’s caretaker clearing burnt out incense sticks from the urns.

Secret Weapons Bunker

If you like trapdoors and secret passages then you will like the Secret Weapons Bunker. This unassuming shophouse in District sits between other houses, but it hides a remarkable secret of the Vietnam War. Under the house is a secret bunker which once stored nearly 2 tons of weapons and played a crucial role in the 1968 Tet Offensive. Its now a museum and entry is free, although there seems to be no official opening hours and they seem to cater to the local motorbike tour groups. If you are an independent tourist like me then you can try squeezing in between groups. There is a small cafe just across the alley where you can get a refreshing drink after all that exploration.

This ordinary looking shophouse conceals a secret underneath it.
One of the 2 secret trapdoors. This one leads to the weapon bunker
The second trapdoor is located in the sitting area in the back where everyone is gathered.
An assortment of old assault rifles, grenades and rocket launchers can be found here once you climb down into the weapons bunker. Well, I hope these weapons have been deactivated as there is enough to equip a small army.
A secret ladder opens out under a sink in the second floor after climbing up through a secret passage from the basement.

Landmark 81

This is the tallest building in Ho Chi Minh City and Vietnam. Standing at 461 m in height, its also among the world’s tallest buildings at 17th position,. The building’s design is inspired by bamboo, a symbol of strength in Vietnamese culture. Landmark 81 is located in District 2 and can be easily reached by taking a Grab ride.

The view of Ho Chi Minh City from the observation deck of Landmark 81. There is a small open deck if you want a more al fresco experience.
Watching the sun set on the city. I’ve zoomed in on the central business area in District 1.
The night view of Ho Chi Minh City after the lights have come on.

Outside the City

Cu Chi Tunnels

Of course any visit to Ho Chi Minh City has to include the notorious Cu Chi Tunnels. These tunnels form an extensive network of interconnected bunkers, hospitals, kitchens and meeting rooms. First built during the 1940’s during the Indochina War against French colonialists, the tunnels were expand during the Vietnam War stretching from the outskirts of Ho Chi Minh City to the Cambodia border. The tunnels formed a vast communications network and served as hiding spots for the Viet Cong during combat with American forces. The Cu Chi Tunnels are 70 km outside Ho Chi Minh City and there are many local tours that can arrange to bring you there. I had skipped the tunnels this time, and these photos are from my previous visit.

The guide showing the really small trapdoor that leads to the Cu Chi Tunnels. The size is just nice for small Vietnamese frames and big fat tourists like us won’t fit in there. There is a short tunnel that has been widen to accommodate tourists but its still a claustrophobic experience. I really can’t imagine living in there for months.
There is a small firing range where you try shooting weapons salvaged from the Vietnam War. I tried my hand with the AK-47.

Incense Village

Nestled 20 kilometers west of Ho Chi Minh City lies Le Minh Xuan, a charming village steeped in tradition. You can find small cottage industries here producing the traditional incense sticks that Vietnamese use for prayers. Although these factories are on a much smaller scale and not as famous as their more touristic counterparts in Hanoi, they offer an authentic rustic experience.

Laying out the bunches of incense sticks to dry by the road side. In the couple of weeks just before Tet, the whole road will be lined with bright red.
A curious worker looking at me and my camera taking photos of the incense sticks.
In another factory, workers were drying the incense sticks on racks. In this case, a layer of incense powder has already been coated onto the sticks.
I found a larger factory where I could get a shot with more incense sticks in the frame for a wonderful repeating pattern.
On the way back from Le Minh Xuan to Ho Chi Minh City, I stopped at this large temple complex.
I couldn’t help but notice that the Buddha shaped holes in the stone pedestal aligns well with the large Buddha in the back.

Getting Around

It used to be that taxis were the only way for tourists to get around Ho Chi Minh City, but now with the advent of ride hailing apps like Grab, I could easily book a ride and pay with my credit card instead of fumbling with cash. The recent start of the first metro line also means that it will get easier to travel around the city. With stations near Ben Thanh Market and the Opera House, this makes it very convenient to visit most of the attractions in District 1.

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